This has probably been asked a million times but I cant really find the answer by searching.
So here it goes.

I have a set of SLP headers and I installed a Bosch 02 sensor in the place for the 02 sensor. Does this provide an adequate amount of heat for the 02 sensor to operate properly? It needs to reach 600*s. I don't have a thermometer gun but I plan on getting one.

This is very important since I'll be running a blower soon.
Thanks

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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
Custom cold air intake w/K&N, SLP airfoil, ported plenum, TB coolant bypass,Crane AFPR (47psi),94 octane,Crane Extruded Alum. 1.6 full roller rockers, Timing set from 4*BTDC to 10*BTDC,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm Annihilator Laser shot 50 wires, Ac Delco cap,rotor and plugs, Bosch O2sensor, SLP 1 5/8 headers,SLP catback,3:73s,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Intellitronix Digital Gauges

Stock throttle body, runners,intake manifold,cam, and heads.

 

I guess that I am going to jump in here and ask the same question. I recently put headers on my 87 TPI 350 with 3" collectors and now I get code 13 flashing on my dash when I do the paper clip trick. (o2 sensor out of whack) but it is new and I was wondering if the change from 2-1/2" to 3" cools the exhaust down too much to get and accurite reading. It hass all of the tell-tale signs, lacks power, burns gas, smells rich. I also has a 160 deg stat in it but I hear that doesnt do much to the o2 sensor. I hear a 3 wire sensor will do the trick but I really dont want to start cutting into wires and splice a bunch of things that I dont really know too much about. Someone please help us get this hooked up so our cars runs right! (I know its cheesy, but I read this and sorta have the same problem)

THANKS!


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1987 GTA 350,rebuilt in 1998. new heads, headers w/y-pipe, 45,000coil, accel plug wires and cap&rotor, k&n, b&m shift kit and trans cooler, modified mass airflow sensor, manual fans switch. NO TIME SLIP. Soon, very soon...

 

I have a set of SLP 1¾ headers, Y-pipe, and full 3" cat back exhaust. I installed a Bosch 3 wire (heated) sensor and I didn't notice a single difference. Not only do I mean the gas milage was EXACTLY the same, but I also verified all O2 sensor readings using Diacom to collect data throughout the entire driving range. I collected data both before and after the installation of the new sensor and the readings were exactly the same.

I do know that the heated O2 sensor WILL enable a reliable closed loop sooner, due to the fact that the sensor warms up to operating temp. more quickly, but I still didn't notice any gas milage increase.

I also read that they (heated sensors) are most valuable at idle, but aren't totally necessary during driving conditions.

They are easy to install though so I wouldn't worry about that, but for double the price of a single wire sensor I question whether or not they are really worth it. I am sure that others will have different opinions on the subject........this is just mine

 

For a set of headers to get CARB approval for use in California they have to allow the O2 sensor to do it's job properly. Although some times the warmup time for the sensor may be longer in tube style headers. That is why most cars that come stock with tubular headers also come stock with heated sensors. Getting your headers ceramic cated inside & out will also hel the sensor heat up faster because not as much heat is lost out of the primary pipes of the headers. You will also pick up a few horses in the proccess. If you get a code 13, chances are that the O2 sesor is bad or not grounded well, or the wire and/or plug on your harness is bad.

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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo

 

When in doubt go heated.
With headers, you **can** get into weird idle situations with the O2 going cold and going open loop, closed loop and just cycling in and out.
Just please don't tune using the O2 as an indicator of richness. The oem gm ones for the FBods are just >14.7 is more then .44 and <14.7 is less then .44...
I you doubt me read the DIY_EFI, and GMECM archives.
I takes a Wide Band O2 to do that. And they are about $1,000 (USD), or building your own.

 

Definately do the heated version. Go to the boneyard and find a late 80's escort (yeah i know its a ford) and cut out the O2 harness and plug. Use an O2 for a 92 rustang. the white wire on the sensor is the signal, the two black wires are power and ground (doesn't matter which way it's hooked up). Find a pink w/ black tracer wire in your harness (it's a fused 12v+ from the computer) and hook one to that and ground the other to something like the head. Hook the white wire to your stock purple and your good to go. They change colors coming out of the pigtail you got (you did get one didn't you?) at the junkyard, just pay attention to the terminal postion. I work in a shop that specializes in Turbo Buicks and we do this on an almost daily basis. It works and I have used it on my own carbed Firebird. The cam I had was so big it would go into open loop after about thirty seconds at idle and stall. Put in heated O2 and all of a sudden I could actually sit at a stop light without gunning it like some punk kid in a honda.

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Torque is KING!
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1. 82 Camaro+ 1. 455" Buick+ 1. N2O plate = YOUR WORST FRIGGIN NIGHTMARE!!!
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