I want to see want is possible out of a fuel injected setup only. Express all your mods and your dyno horsepower numbers or e.t.

Here's my goal that I hope is attainable and thats why I'm asking.

I always wanted a reliable street machine that would pound everyone on the street well you know everyone who drives their car to work and be very respectable at the track.

My goal is 500h.p and over 500lbs. of torque.
All naturally aspirated. This is flywheel dyno power not Rear wheel horsepower just in case you're wondering.

The dream of mines is to have a 383 Mini-ram Stroker producing the above mention power naturally aspirated through a full exhaust and with all the emission devices attached.

I already have DFI in my car and an expert tuner to tame any combo so thats not much of a concern. My concern is making the power level without sacrificing too much in driveability and reliability. So here's a formula I think could work or if not change this recipe to something proven. Here we go:

383 stroker sbc preferably one piece seal
short block assembly stout enough to spin to 6000 Rpm's if needed. Also the compression ratio I hope to keep between 9.5 to 10.0 just to make it a friendlier street car.

AFR 195 cc fully compettion ported heads with CC to match desired compression with pistons. Heat riser/to attempt to keep it legal at least and hook up all the smog device even if not funtional.

Cam is left up to the professional engine builder/tuner with experience in obtaining the above mentioned power. Hopefully it will be a roller cam and all the valvetrain to follow suit. I would think something around 220-230 dur and 525-560 lift on a 112*. Could be wrong but just a guess.

Mini-ram intake from TPIS fully ported and extrune-honed to flow enough air to match the heads and perhaps 36 or 42 lbs inj.to spray fuel to the engine. Definently a 58mm T.B. to allow that much air in.

The way I think I could set up an exhaust and get away with it would be with the Hooker Super Comp 1 3/4" w/02 bung and have someone weld the air pipes to make them appear legal headers. The mufflex y connected to the full 4" catback should probably meet the required back flow.

Transmission and torque converter choices I would leave to my tech who sold me a heavy duty 700r-4 with a 10" 2200-2400 stall converter. I would surely need to upgrade these parts I think.

And I have the 9"+ Currie Ford rear setup to take 700 horses so thats not a concern

Suspension is a full Spohn setup with one side of the parts spherical and other poly-urethane.

So what do you guys see that could be bettered or is this how must of you guys envision a setup like mines?

 

There was a local guy that had a minirammed 396 stroker with a very lumpy cam, CNC Bowties and Hooker long tubes and he "only" made ~485hp and 500tq. I can't remember if it was rear wheel or flywheel HP, though. I can check on it later today.

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Mike

'90 IROC-Z , 5-speed, ZZ4, G1 Trick Flows
Moderator SEThirdgen

 

The guy I need to talk to is still out, but I was able to talk with another engine builder at the shop. He says their typical streetable LT1 stroker is in the ~485 hp range. Their engines run ~ 11:1 cr, LT4 intake, and a cam around .550" lift. The only concern he mentioned was the CR. You will lose some HP with the lower CR.

Otherwise, he thinks your suggested combo will get you close, but longtube headers and a great exhaust will be necessary. I've personally watched several of these engine pull this HP in the dyno cell to only lose 40 when they bottle up the engine with shorties and exhaust.

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Mike

'90 IROC-Z , 5-speed, ZZ4, G1 Trick Flows
Moderator SEThirdgen