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MAF Gutting and Reliability

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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 08:42 PM
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Steve R's Avatar
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From: Westbury NY
MAF Gutting and Reliability

Since my car is somewhat apart now while i replace the radiator, i'm thinking about removing the screens from the MAF sensor. I'm also thinking about removing parts of that housing just below the K+N air filters. Does this in any way hurt the MAF sensor or take away from its lifespan?

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-80 Camaro 350, Carter AFB, headers, dual exh, ram air, all sorts of crap
-88 Iroc-Z 350tpi, 3.27 gears, 4 wheel disc, MSD 6a, tpi airfoil, k+n's, white gauges, accel coil, flowmaster, pretty quick
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 09:00 PM
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Kevin Irving's Avatar
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From: Norfolk, VA
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I removed mine almost 2 years ago and have had no ill effects from it, but then again I haven't really seen a difference in doing it either, even though I have ported out my plenum & runners also. My advice.... leave it alone, or get the Wells SU-145 unit.

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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 09:06 PM
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
I left mine in. I was going to take it out and people said if you get a backfire though the intake your screwed. I said hey right that'll never happen. well this weekend i was working ont he car and it happened and I was glad i didnt take the screen out.
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 09:06 PM
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From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
If u do it right no, if not yes u will have to buy a new MAF. Read up on it and do a search on this board and on the Tech board. I've read lots of topics like this, and from reading them, I suggest u not to do it or get the Wells MAF. Mod the TPI and the airbox, thats where alot and most of the restrictions are.

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Looking For:

87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 04, 2001).]
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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 11:38 PM
  #5  
Grumpy's Avatar
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by Steve R:
Since my car is somewhat apart now while i replace the radiator, i'm thinking about removing the screens from the MAF sensor. I'm also thinking about removing parts of that housing just below the K+N air filters. Does this in any way hurt the MAF sensor or take away from its lifespan?
The whole idea with EFI is accuracy. Turbulence in the intake tract effects the MAF readings. Removing the screens makes that worse. If yo u go faster without them, then there is another problem.

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Old Feb 4, 2001 | 11:51 PM
  #6  
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
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From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
My friends and I have been removing screens and cooling fins from MAFs for years (since 1988) and have only had one failure from a high HP nitrous backfire. It didn't just damage the hot wire. It exploded the entire duct!!! Having screens in it wouldn't have prevented that kind of damage. lol. In fact, I believe that if it still had the screens it may have hurt even more parts. Maybe even allowing the BIG $$$ sheet metal intake he was running to be damaged. I think removing the screens and using a loose woven element like a K&N actually reduces the risk of damage in the even of a backfire by allowing a low restriction path for the pressure to be released.

On my setup I am using an MAF that I have removed the entire duct from the electronics, and venturi/hotwire assembly. I replaced the stock 3" id duct with a 4" id duct. That hurt accuracy (less resolution) more than I wanted so I replaced the 4" duct with a 3½" duct. I have been running it that way since 95 with no problems. Most failures are from rough handling. Some electical failures are going to happen anyway, modified or not.

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Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
  • 355 cid
  • AFR heads
  • Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
  • modified SLP runners
  • TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
  • fully balanced
  • Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
  • SLP cat-back
  • Paxton supercharger
  • Nitrous Express nitrous oxide
My IROC-Z
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Old Feb 5, 2001 | 12:48 AM
  #7  
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I have taken screens out before, didnt notice any SOTP difference. If you feel comfortable messing with cars and have done so for a while, and you take a look at the MAF and think you can do it staying away from the wire in the middle, then go ahead. If you dont feel comfortable with working on cars or are new at it, I would leave it alone.

And a clarification on the screens and turbulence:
The screens actually add turbulence to the airflow. The idea is that the screen is supposed to equalize the velocity across the entire cross-section, which is always characterized as turbulent flow. A laminar flow has a peak velocity near the center and ideally no velocity at the edges. Since the sensing element is in the middle of the airpath, the idea is to slow the air down and make it more turbulent so the MAF is picking up an average velocity rather than a peak velocity.

[This message has been edited by madmax (edited February 04, 2001).]
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