Hi guys the other day at the parts store I left my girl in the car and ran in to get an Absorber came back out and the damn temp was maxed I killed the motor and let her cool down I used the old paper clip to put her into service mode and the fan did come on.
Came home and it was fine got out and pulled the intake boot, to find it had some coolent droplets inside it. I knew where that had come from. (I have had a slow leak on the back of the intake to head gasket on the drivers side. the high temp/pressure must have blown it out into the lifter vally) Well so I got to due that out in the street ok new intake gaskets in(not fun to due in the street) and when to set the timing and it did it agian I checked the fans and nothing I turned on the AC to see if the pass side fin would come on and my AC didnt even come on I know that it worked last fall (thats about the only thing the damn cops keep up)
soo whats going on where should I start looking like I said the driver side will come on when I jump the adl thing but I dont want to drive around with a paper clip stuck in the port.
One last thing to disable the ESC I unhook the one wire (gray clip) just off the coil RIGHT
thanxs guy
jacob


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Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her
god speed dale

 

Jake,

Since the jumper in the ALDL caused the fan to operate, we can presume the fan relay and fan motor/power wiring are O.K.

Measure the resistance of the CTS in the front of the intake manifold coolant crossover. The sensor should have a yellow and a black wire in the connector. The resistance should vary with coolant temperature, and should be close to these values:



If the readings are close (or at least not WAY off, ground the yellow wire from the CTS connector to a good ground. With the ignition ON, this should energize the primary fan relay and start the primary fan. This will also set a DTC - Code 14, but as long as you expect that you'll understand why. If you have a 50 ohm resistor, you can install that in the connector instead of grounding the yellow wire. This will prevent the DTC but should still cause the fan to operate.

If the fan still does not operate, you may have poor connections between the CTS and the ECM. Check for 5VDC at the yellow wire when the connector is removed from the CTS. Make sure the black wire is a good signal ground.

If the fan is operating with the AC and the jumper in the ALDL, one of those things should get you closer to the problem.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited March 20, 2001).]

 

Vader your the man I was thinking it might be The CTS (but it is fairly new mabey a year at best) NAPA Echlen brand but it wouldnt surprise me if the damn thing broke I did a little messing around today and both fans Do work when I put 12 to them from the relays on I bet that its the CTS I will check it tonight and let you know how it comes out.
thanxs jacob


------------------
Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her
god speed dale

 

well I disconected the CTS sensor and started the car and with out grounding anything the driver side fan came on (I assume that its a limp mode thing seeing as how the ECM would have no clue as to the motors temp) I dont have what looks to be a yellow wire though( they both look brown and one has a black strip)
I got the timeing set right after looking for that damn ESC plug for about an hour its know were nere where my chiltons says it should be damn thing is clear over by AC/heater box? oh well got her set right on and now the car pulls harder then it ever has (fixed the minor backfires on decell I have had since I got the car)


------------------
Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her
god speed dale