Fuel Pump
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk, VA
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
That's the best (and safest) way is to take the tank out and do it. Don't even think about cutting into an already flimsy body to try and save yourself some work.
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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, Rapidfire #2 @ .055", MSD 6AL, 1.6:1 Roller tipped rockers, Homemade AFPR, K&N cone, no airbox, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Descreened MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil, Mobil 1 synth in all but transmission.
15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!
http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/
Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/
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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, Rapidfire #2 @ .055", MSD 6AL, 1.6:1 Roller tipped rockers, Homemade AFPR, K&N cone, no airbox, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Descreened MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil, Mobil 1 synth in all but transmission.
15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!
http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/
Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Yep... Thats good info IMO, take off the lower shock bolts, panhard rod and drop the rear w/o killing your brake hose. Drop the exhaust in the way and take apart the fuel filler neck plastic stuff. If you have gas in the tank run it out or low or like I had to do, break the fuel feed (The bigger line) and stick a piece of hose on it and clamp it. Jump ALDL terminal "G" and pump it into a container or another fuel tank...
Disconnect the plug going to the pump (center) and all the hoses/lines on the drivers side. Drop the heat shield, remove the strap bolts while holding that tank... Wrastle with it a little until it comes out...
Use a punch and hammer to loosen the gizmo on top and remove the sender/pump assembly.
If yours has a pulse dampner/ remove it and tie the pump to the line with high pressure hose and clamps. Stick a new sock on the end and solder the ground in the stock location and if any wires look fishy replace them with oil/gas resistant wire. I wouldn't trust crimp or twisting wire in here without solder. Just the fact that electricity under high amperage running trough my gasoline scares the **** out of me!
Slap a new O-ring on the top of the tank and put it all back together.
Disconnect the plug going to the pump (center) and all the hoses/lines on the drivers side. Drop the heat shield, remove the strap bolts while holding that tank... Wrastle with it a little until it comes out...
Use a punch and hammer to loosen the gizmo on top and remove the sender/pump assembly.
If yours has a pulse dampner/ remove it and tie the pump to the line with high pressure hose and clamps. Stick a new sock on the end and solder the ground in the stock location and if any wires look fishy replace them with oil/gas resistant wire. I wouldn't trust crimp or twisting wire in here without solder. Just the fact that electricity under high amperage running trough my gasoline scares the **** out of me!
Slap a new O-ring on the top of the tank and put it all back together.
Gasoline is not conductive, it shouldnt scare you. Only way to get ignition is to have something short and cause a spark in the tank; quite unlikely unless its a really half-as*ed wiring job.
Joel has excellent advice. Only one thing, tho....if the pump's not working after you jump it through the ALDL (mine wasn't), the easiest way to "pump/syphon" the gas out is to:
Stick a syphon hose into the tank through the filler neck; put a small diameter air nozzle (wrapped in a towel to create a seal) into the filler neck, and pressurize the tank. The fuel will "escape" the pressure via the syphon hose, and viola, a suckless syphon!
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'88 Formula 350
Bright (VERY bright) red. Mods? yep, but never enough!
New toy: '85 305TPI/700R4 Black T-Top T/A
Stick a syphon hose into the tank through the filler neck; put a small diameter air nozzle (wrapped in a towel to create a seal) into the filler neck, and pressurize the tank. The fuel will "escape" the pressure via the syphon hose, and viola, a suckless syphon!
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'88 Formula 350
Bright (VERY bright) red. Mods? yep, but never enough!
New toy: '85 305TPI/700R4 Black T-Top T/A
on a related note, as the fuel filter clogs, the fuel pump has to work much much harder to do it's job, causing increased heat buildup and shortening it's lifespan considerably. so even if you're getting enough pressure at the fuel rails, if it's been 2 years or so since you've changed the filter, go ahead and change it.
an interesting experiment is to hook up an ammeter to the fuel pump and do a before and after of how much current is drawn by the fuel pump. a partially clogged filter which gives you enough fuel to run the engine with no visible performance problems will cause the pump to draw 50% more current than a new filter.
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stephen - 89 GTA - https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1321
an interesting experiment is to hook up an ammeter to the fuel pump and do a before and after of how much current is drawn by the fuel pump. a partially clogged filter which gives you enough fuel to run the engine with no visible performance problems will cause the pump to draw 50% more current than a new filter.
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stephen - 89 GTA - https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1321
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