EST and setting timing
EST and setting timing
I've been seeing some stuff about setting the timing and unhooking the EST.Right now my car don't run very because I need A new promm(in the process) for my new motor setup.However it does start and run with a little help.(pumping gas & holding the rpm's up a bit,)It seems I can't get the timing to set.I unkooked the EST and car was harded to star.Should I start the car then unhook the EST.
Any help would be appreciated
Any help would be appreciated
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by u r sofa king we tah did:
what is it doing exactly. running real slow like barely chugging along then dying? you might need to set your minimum idle first.</font>
what is it doing exactly. running real slow like barely chugging along then dying? you might need to set your minimum idle first.</font>
Your advice is sound, but before you accumulate a lot of posts and create an identity for yourself you might want to consider a different login name - Dirk may not appreciate your sense of humor for long...
Your input, questions , and participation are welcomed and valuable, but there have been enough incidents of inflammatory posts and such that this may not fly for long.
Just trying to help you out a bit.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
chiefz28,
i am asumming you do have a tpi car?
if so, pumping? the throttle my be trying to
'clear flood' condition. holding the throttle
wide open while starting will put the system
in a mode to try and reduce the extra fuel
you maybe requiring to use to start.
the est (electronic spark timing) bypass is
to unlock the ignition timing while running.
so the computer will not change the inital
while your cranking on the distributor.
to set timing, engine off-key off, disconnect
bypass wire (connector with brown wire black stripe)
start engine. idle engine to 600rpm, and aim timing
light to timing tab. follow tuneup specs for
setting (most people fudge 2-4+ in timing
no more than 10 degrees please. shut engine down,
reconnect est bypass. restart engine.
if all is good. clear the codes by removing negative
battery cable for 15-30sec and reconnect.
if you are continuing to have running difficulties
and you still are on a mass air flow system
weve seen alot of MAF relays be the culprit.
both the power relay and burn-off relay.
$25 for both. make sure the tubing between the MAF
and throttle body are tight and soild. other
than that possible use of a scanner to review
your outputs...
airdeano
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]
i am asumming you do have a tpi car?
if so, pumping? the throttle my be trying to
'clear flood' condition. holding the throttle
wide open while starting will put the system
in a mode to try and reduce the extra fuel
you maybe requiring to use to start.
the est (electronic spark timing) bypass is
to unlock the ignition timing while running.
so the computer will not change the inital
while your cranking on the distributor.
to set timing, engine off-key off, disconnect
bypass wire (connector with brown wire black stripe)
start engine. idle engine to 600rpm, and aim timing
light to timing tab. follow tuneup specs for
setting (most people fudge 2-4+ in timing
no more than 10 degrees please. shut engine down,
reconnect est bypass. restart engine.
if all is good. clear the codes by removing negative
battery cable for 15-30sec and reconnect.
if you are continuing to have running difficulties
and you still are on a mass air flow system
weve seen alot of MAF relays be the culprit.
both the power relay and burn-off relay.
$25 for both. make sure the tubing between the MAF
and throttle body are tight and soild. other
than that possible use of a scanner to review
your outputs...
airdeano
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by airdeano:
chiefz28,
i am asumming you do have a tpi car?
if so, pumping? the throttle my be trying to
'clear flood' condition. holding the throttle
wide open while starting will put the system
in a mode to try and reduce the extra fuel
you maybe requiring to use to start.
the est (electronic spark timing) bypass is
to unlock the ignition timing while running.
so the computer will not change the inital
while your cranking on the distributor.
to set timing, engine off-key off, disconnect
bypass wire (connector with brown wire black stripe)
start engine. idle engine to 600rpm, and aim timing
light to timing tab. follow tuneup specs for
setting (most people fudge 2-4+ in timing
no more than 10 degrees please. shut engine down,
reconnect est bypass. restart engine.
if all is good. clear the codes by removing negative
battery cable for 15-30sec and reconnect.
if you are continuing to have running difficulties
and you still are on a mass air flow system
weve seen alot of MAF relays be the culprit.
both the power relay and burn-off relay.
$25 for both. make sure the tubing between the MAF
and throttle body are tight and soild. other
than that possible use of a scanner to review
your outputs...
airdeano
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]</font>
chiefz28,
i am asumming you do have a tpi car?
if so, pumping? the throttle my be trying to
'clear flood' condition. holding the throttle
wide open while starting will put the system
in a mode to try and reduce the extra fuel
you maybe requiring to use to start.
the est (electronic spark timing) bypass is
to unlock the ignition timing while running.
so the computer will not change the inital
while your cranking on the distributor.
to set timing, engine off-key off, disconnect
bypass wire (connector with brown wire black stripe)
start engine. idle engine to 600rpm, and aim timing
light to timing tab. follow tuneup specs for
setting (most people fudge 2-4+ in timing
no more than 10 degrees please. shut engine down,
reconnect est bypass. restart engine.
if all is good. clear the codes by removing negative
battery cable for 15-30sec and reconnect.
if you are continuing to have running difficulties
and you still are on a mass air flow system
weve seen alot of MAF relays be the culprit.
both the power relay and burn-off relay.
$25 for both. make sure the tubing between the MAF
and throttle body are tight and soild. other
than that possible use of a scanner to review
your outputs...
airdeano
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by airdeano (edited July 27, 2001).]</font>
91 z28 355cu mini ramm intk,AFR 190 heads,52mm TB. 10.23:1cr 24# inj AFPR
Comp X-TREME ENERGY cam .535intk .543ex with 1.6 roller rockers,roller cam,roller lifters & other small things
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by chiefz28:
Your correct as it is TPI but SD not mass. are you saying I should not pump while trying to start engine.I understand you shouldn't have to but won't seem to start otherwise.Here is some info on car also maybe will help
91 z28 355cu mini ramm intk,AFR 190 heads,52mm TB. 10.23:1cr 24# inj AFPR
Comp X-TREME ENERGY cam .535intk .543ex with 1.6 roller rockers,roller cam,roller lifters & other small things</font>
Your correct as it is TPI but SD not mass. are you saying I should not pump while trying to start engine.I understand you shouldn't have to but won't seem to start otherwise.Here is some info on car also maybe will help
91 z28 355cu mini ramm intk,AFR 190 heads,52mm TB. 10.23:1cr 24# inj AFPR
Comp X-TREME ENERGY cam .535intk .543ex with 1.6 roller rockers,roller cam,roller lifters & other small things</font>
a low vacuum condition, richening the a/f mix
you may need to check these things:
1. fuel pressure; starting (36-42)running
(42-45) vacuum line removed (47-52)
2. with a scanner observe the pass key function
passkey OK
3. temperature at sensor open circuit shows
-140
4. check TPS function idle .50-.74v possible
maladjustment.
5. check injector pulse at injector to see if
they are firing. VATS or pickup coil
a couple of things to check...
airdeano
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Vader:
Sofa,
Your advice is sound, but before you accumulate a lot of posts and create an identity for yourself you might want to consider a different login name - Dirk may not appreciate your sense of humor for long...
Your input, questions , and participation are welcomed and valuable, but there have been enough incidents of inflammatory posts and such that this may not fly for long.
Just trying to help you out a bit.
</font>
Sofa,
Your advice is sound, but before you accumulate a lot of posts and create an identity for yourself you might want to consider a different login name - Dirk may not appreciate your sense of humor for long...
Your input, questions , and participation are welcomed and valuable, but there have been enough incidents of inflammatory posts and such that this may not fly for long.
Just trying to help you out a bit.
</font>
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oh i didnt know you were SD, with the cam you are running, you HAVE to have a custom prom to get that thing running right. the cam is absolutely killing your vacuum, and the MAP doesnt know what the hell is going on.
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