Since I ran at Gateway last, I have added Spohn Subframe connectors, LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, and an adjustable stabalizer bar for traction (still running Yokohama Mowhawks, though), while adding a portmatched Edelbrock base, runners, and plenum, Comp Cams pro mag 1.6rr, switching to 3.73:1 gears from 3.23:1, and bypassing my smog pump to boost power. Here are the results:

Old Timeslip:`````````New Timeslip:
Date: 9/6/00`````````Date: 8/8/01
60' .... 2.104````````60' .... 2.044
330' ... 5.993````````330' ... 5.895
1/8 .... 9.253````````1/8 .... 9.037
MPH .... 75.32````````MPH .... 79.61
1000 ... 12.069```````1000 ... 11.762
1/4 .... 14.445```````1/4 .... 14.049
MPH .... 94.99````````MPH .... 98.23

You be the judge of my results. Any feedback/tips would be appreciated. I want 13s SOOOO bad. Perhaps I could ahieve a better time when it cools down (90+ deg. at track tonight). Thanks again. Your opinions matter.

Kyle

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1990 Firebird Formula 350 speed density TPI; Edelbrock HI-FLO base and Runners w/portmached plenum; air foil; Comp Cams 1.6rr; Edelbrock 1&5/8" headers; MSD 6AL, HEI coil & plug wires; underdrive pullies; Hypertech stage II chip; AFPR; B&M stage II shift kit; 3.73:1 rear; Jamex 1.5" lowering coils; Spohn subframe connectors, LCA's, and LCA relocation brackets; free mods; !cats; !Smog Pump; PLUS...1300w stereo weighing 200 lbs.

[This message has been edited by MelloYello (edited August 08, 2001).]

 

If you put on a set of drag radials you would be in the 13's. Wait until the weather is cooler and that will get you there also.


------------------
92 Z/28
Hotchkis suspension Bilstein
AGR steering box,pump. Wonder bar
Simmons Wheels 17x9.5 275x40x17 FZ50
K&N air filters, airfoil. Alum drive shaft,MSD6AL,coil
Ported Plenum ,Ploshed inside runners,intake ports, Gutted air box
60' 1.937 (4-20-02)ran a 13.953
1/8 8.839 (2-11-01)
1/4 13.851 (2-11-01)
mph 98.16 (2-11-01)
Moderator @ http://www.gmperformance.org/

 

OK a few tips an/or questions

First that is a pretty steep gear and you 60' times didnt improve much from your suspension mods because of it. I would remedy this by getting a set of BFG Drag Radials for strip use. That will net you your 13s easy because you will be able to hook all the extra power you made to the ground which from your time looks like your suffering from traction a little bit.
Do you burn your own proms? If so its time for a new one. If not did you turn up the fuel a bit? WIth the added airflow you could use a little more fuel in the mixture. Also you might want to raise your shift points about 250-500 rpm sonce the new intake stuff will flow better at higher RPMs you will have power to use up there and your gear will like the added RPMs. Do this by trial and erroe with the kick down cable.
Also consider running some 110 octane fuel at the track and setting your timing ahead 1 or 2 degrees.
Do you have a scan tool yet? If you do you can look at how high you can run your timing before you get knock.

If you do all this you should be able to find another .2 sec easily, if not more with the drag radials, since you will be able to launch with more power and get out of the whole a lot faster and use the advantage of that gear more.


------------------
89 Trans Am Turbo 3.8L All stock 43,000 miles #1053 of 1555

Past Thirdgen:
86 Trans Am w/ built 355TPI with SLP goodies and too much other stuff to List. One sweet *** car, wish I would have had a good enough Job to pay insurance on three cars so I could keep it, but for a 89 Turbo Trans Am w/ Low miles, I think I made the right choice!

 

Question..Just to make sure...You do take out the 200 lb stereo before you run right?just checkin

 

Why take out the stereo?? Should always run it in street trim.. That way you know what you run on the street...

And I would definitely go to a new convertor... Vigilante works wonders....

And you never did say what size cam you have, whether it is stock or you have an aftermarket one....



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13.3 @ 100.3MPH 95 degrees and 95% humidity w/ no tuning on motor

Sportsman II, Gear drive, Perf. Res. chip, SLP 1 3/4" headers, Edelbrock muffler, Trans-go stage 3, Vigilante 9.5", Functional Ram Air hood, SLP roller cam, 24lb ADS injectors, AFPR, 3.45 gears, Stealth intake, 58mm setup, Spohn suspension, and other goodies...


raven

 

Don't mean to whiz in yer Wheaties, but... with those mods I think you should be seeing 13.90-13.70's. Look at my mods....I am running just as fast as you and have barely begun modding.


------------------
Mike L.
It ain't pretty.......

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, MSD 6A, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

 

I agree with Raven you always should run in street trim, with street tires. I wouldn't buy slicks just for the track, and then have to put my radials back on when I get home. I agree with the guys that your 3.73s are a little too low, might wanna consider going with 3.42s and a goodd 2500 or so stall. Also, it doesn't show in your sig that you have a cat-back exhaust system. You can get a high flow cat from Catco for $110 and a 3" exhaust system from Hooker for $260, those will really work wonders on your car.

------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End with 2.77:1 Gears.

Current Mods: LT4 HOT Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, LPE High Flow TPI Baseplate, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Catco 3" High-Flow Catalytic Converter, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Transgo Shift Kit, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET: 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

 

Thanks for all the tips, guys! As far as my alleged slow time for my mods goes, I feel obliged to point out that most people were going 1-2 tenths slower due to high ambient temperature and high relative humidity. However, an excuse for many won't cut it for me. I do see room for improvement, though:

I feel that my stall was too tight, and even after a long dry burnout, the tires wouldn't hold past 1200 RPM without spinning.

I also feel that an SLP y-pipe along with a 3-inch catback would help tremendously, as I am still using stock y-pipe and 2.75" intermediate pipe.

Third, maybe a 52mm throttlebody would help to free up a few ponies.

Fourth, I need STICKY tires!

Finally, my stock torque arm has a 3 inch crack from where it meets the pumpkin forward, could I lose launching ability from that? I hear it click as the two sides of the crack snap past one another when going from "R" to "D" or when letting off after hard acceleration.

Any other comments? Any speculation on what these Items could do for my time?

Thanks again
Kyle

 

that torrque arm is definately a problem. It's main purpose is to help with traction off the line. If it's broken or not functioning correctly that will really hurt your times.

 

What are you shifting at.My friends car dropped from 14.04 to 13.82 just by lowering
his shifts from 5500 to 5000.He had similar
mods to you but had a stock intake.

 

YEp that torque arm is why your 60' times suck. The better you get out of the hole will improve times more than almost anything(Not including major modifications). Your gear is way too low for a broken torque arm, but then you will have problems with the tres not being sticky enough.

Guys there are DOT approved drag RADIALS that I sudgest you get, that way when you go out hunting or cruising on the weekends you can put them on and your still in leagal "street trim", plus it will save some wear on your regular rear ties.

You really need a cat back exhaust. That usually the first mod that anyone makes. I am a big supporter of the Flowmaster american Thnder system. It sounded mean as **** on my 355TPI when coupled with no cat and Hooker headers. Though on my TTA I am going to keep my cat and just switch to a high flow from Random Technologies.

After that you will be running lean and unless you want to incvest time and a little money into programming your own prom you will need to bump fuel pressure a few psi.

Also you will need to experiment with your shift points to see where to shift, unless you can get it dynoed and set it to shift at max HP. If not you will have to find it by Trial and error.

I would say get some sticky tires, Fix your suspension, invest about $700 in a full exhaust including headers, cat, cat back, labor, and nice tips, Get and AFPR, foll around with your timing and shift points and you should have a sub 13.5 car which puts you at speed with my TTA, for now BWAHAHHAHAHAH cause it aint going to be stock for long!!!!!!!!!!!!
THats a V6, WTF? LOL

Err I just saw you had headers so I take it back it will be like $400 in the exhaust.

------------------
89 Trans Am Turbo 3.8L All stock 43,000 miles #1053 of 1555

Past Thirdgen:
86 Trans Am w/ built 355TPI with SLP goodies and too much other stuff to List. One sweet *** car, wish I would have had a good enough Job to pay insurance on three cars so I could keep it, but for a 89 Turbo Trans Am w/ Low miles, I think I made the right choice!

[This message has been edited by Kyle F (edited August 10, 2001).]

 

I have not been to the quarter mile yet but my eight mile was 8.76 1/8 with 1.96 60' and trap speed of 78mph. I can tell it died three quarter way down the track, still trying to figure that one out.