About how much horspower and torque would you guess that I have already. The motor is an 86 305 Tuned Port Injection with a Comp Cam 260/260 duration .444/.444 Lift 112 LSA cam in it, bored .030 over, and will be getting a set of headers. What other mods should I do to get my motor to put out 300hp such as heads and other stuff?

 

300hp to the flywheel would need ported heads or aftermarkets, bigger cam, ported tpi system or aftermarket, full exhaust headers-back, intake, and probably a good tune.

 

What would be a good set of heads to get?

 

again to the flywheel you can either get your factory heads ported since they respond very well to porting talk to fbird88 about it he does it with great results. otherwise you can get world products s/r torquers that have 58cc combustion chambers.

 

you should upgrade the TPI stuff for sure. You'll be close to 300 on stock heads i feel with the right cam and intake setup. BUT more flow from the heads will definately help. you dont need a whole lot for 300hp. Mildly cleaned up stockers will be your best bet. Basic clean up port job with alittle bowl work and its good to go man

 

heres my opinion and you will be quite indentical to the build i proceeding on doing if u heed my advice.

that cam is a little small but it will suffice, i wouldnt swap it out myself. Instead i would run 1.6 ratio full roller rockers, that will bump up your lift to the .470 ish range. pull the heads off do a minor pocket port job just a couple hours a head. clean up the short side radius and bowl cuts + thin the guides down a little and you'll gain an easy 15-20 hp just from that.

havestock valves backcut that'll add about 3-5% flow, and pin your stock studs so you don't have worry about durability. while off i'd have a 3 angle valve job done along with, .010 milled for assured flatness, and a slight bump in compression.

i'd say thats another gain of around 10 or so. As for the rockers thats another 15hp at least. that cam you already had is worth an easy 25hp over the factor peanut cam.

siamese you base and port your upper plenum and your talking another 20hp i'd say.

shorty headers and 3in catback, another 20-25hp

thats a formula for about 300fwhp i'd say.

personally i'm going to be running a crane 2032 grind cam (.452/.465 lift 214/220 duration), already own a set of 1.6 full roller rocks so that will be around .480-.495 lift at rockers as a quicky guess. just bought a fully ported siamesed intake, have a msd capacitive ignition system lying around, already have edelbrock shorty headers and y-pipe + 3 in borla catback, airfoil, k&ns, mildly ported 416s just cleaned up with a carbide burr in bowls and mild smoothing of the guides.

i hope to make 300fwhp after a tune but, hey we'll c all i know is it won't be any slower unless its the drivers fault

 

i like Flaming-Fords build. Looks good

 

coming from you i take that as a hell of a compliment, if only i could get mine down the track like you did yours......

i'm hoping my main problem is a bad dizzy (have an intermittent misfire) currently along with wrong heads (has 187s instead of 081s)for my motor currently + a hugely worn out rear suspension only being able to cut a 60 ft time of a 2.4 lol.......

quicky ? for you if you have a second tho i trapped at 92 mph last at the track, but ran a 15.1 because of a 2.43 60 ft time (due to a combo of highly worn tires (showing threads) and a realy hoppy terribly worn out backend).

is it safe to asume that would have ran a bottom 14 like a 14.2-14.4 with a standard 1.9-2.0 6o fter. I want to make sure i brake the 13 sec barrier without a tune. I'll have lca's and lcarbs b4 the track along with all the above mods + a couple little things i didnt mention. + if i get another rearend in time i'll probably be running drag radials so i may even cut a 1.8 or better 60, if not i've got a new set of falken ziex 255/50s that hook a lot better than the thready daytons that were on the back at the time lol

 

yes you will have 14's with a much better 60 ft and all your ignition problems sorted out. every tenth in the 60 foot is worth nearly .15-.2 on the big end, depending. I found it to be more like .15 in the 1/4 on my car or so, on average. 1.97 60's was 14.0-14.1's on street tires. 1.89 60 foot was 13.89.


But to get lower 14's, i think your 60 foot needs to be in the 1.80 range. Cuz i had my EST wire disconnected once when i checked my L98's timing. i forgot to put it back together when i took the car to the track. First and only pass that day i went 1.79 60 foot and ran 14.00 at 94mph. Broke the rear end Car wasnt getting the full timing and thus my power was DOWN alot.

With 92mph i think you will need drag radials for a 1.80-1.85 60 foot may get you 14.3's or so on a good day with a iced intake i'd bet. But with your mods and a good tune, it should run pretty strong man.

That build you have in mind is something i would build for around 300-325 hp 305. Once my 89 Irocz is done and i have enough to pickup another project, i'll do a 305 build to see what i can get out of it

 

Around what is the max lift that I can have on my stock heads?

 

they say .470-.480 will have clearance issues between retainer and guide boss. you can have the heads machined for more lift which shouldnt cost too much, and while your at it, it be nice to get screw in studs for strength and reliability.

If you dont want machine work, you can throw on .050-.060 worth of shims underneath the springs, and run 10 degree retainers with +.050" offset locks. This will raise the spring assembly about .050" higher above the guide boss so you will gain .050" more usable lift before the retainer hits the valve guide seal/boss. that will handle around .520" lift cams but you'll have to measure for safety

 

i agree you will need retainers but not the 10 degree you can just get what i have the manley 1.25" +.050 retainers and use factory locks. im putting them together on my new heads now and be sure the measure everything carefully. with new retainers or locks youll have to shim whatever springs you use. for 1.75" recommended install height for my matching manley springs i had to use .090 shims on the exhaust and .045 on the intake. with all of this together i measured for my .510 lift ill be running which will give me i forgot the measurement but half of the o ring groove for clearance between seal and retainer. BTW i also like your setup flaming ford. decent sized cam, ported heads, ported tpi. if anything id recommend a torque converter with a higher stall to lower your 60fts and get lower times.

 

he's got a stick so that will be fun.

 

just for those of you who don't know btw, advanced auto sells lifetime warranty clutch kits for 90 sum bux for a t5 ............. plan to go through 1 of them things this year haha.

 

o i missed that sorry. guess youre in good shape then as long as the tranny holds up.

 

I hear about 187 and 081 heads, my question is what set of heads should my motor have on it? Do they respond well to porting?

 

not sure of the 187 heads, but 081's came on 305 TPI's from what i know and yes they respond pretty good to porting.

 

86 i think was the perimete bolt valve covers still if so then you have 416's which are the same as 081 with minor non beneficial differences. and youre heads will port nicely refer to fbird88 hes ported many of these and outflowed vortec heads. stock for stock the 187s are what i would choose but many opinions would differ from mine. ported id take your 416s.

 

Does fbird88 have an article on here somewhere about the porting he has done?

 

no he posts in random threads will his flow numbers and such that ive seen in the 220 intake region and 180 exhaust. if youre looking for a how to with pictures search for sitting bulls ported 601 thread. he has lots of pictures and its basically the same head just some little differences but will show you what needs to be done. it also goes into great detail what to do and what not to.