Yeah I had to go somewhere so I didn't really look around to find out if it was unplugged or anything, but I just checked and saw that the second one you were talking about is in fact, unplugged. So I'm going to clear the code, plug that in and see whats going on now. Thanks.

 

cts unplugged? thats definitely a problem. why would that be unhooked? if i were you, i would do a full trip around the engine, checking and snugging all your sensor and cable connections. if one is off, maybe there are more. never hurts to double and triple check... saves alot of headaches

 

Yep,, what thunde85 said. The CTS unplugged was probably keeping you from setting the idle under 1000 rpm. Should have been running rich enough that you would have smelled that and mentioned it,, but hopefully you'll be able to repeat the min idle setting until it idles where it is supposed to with the TPS at .5 volts. Make sure the Wide Open Throttle TPS setting is getting to at least 4.5 volts,,, the closer you can get it to five the better.

 

Well actually it was plugged in during that time trying to set the idle. It came loose when I was driving it because the end of the sensor broke off so it doesn't "click" when I put it on. I'll be replacing it because of that. I have it set at about 850 at idle. the TPS is at .540V and at about 4.5V at WOT. Thanks guys.

 

So the car was running great for a few hours and then it started throwing the code 32 again. I cleared it and it came back immediately. It started slowly dying at idle again after those few hours. But it'll start right back up, idle for about a minute, and then slowly die. Everything sounds great, there's no miss..it seems perfect, and then it dies.

Code 32 is an EGR code. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I took out the solenoid and it's cracked a little bit, so I'm wondering if it's ok. I also read somewhere that if the plenum is extremely hot at idle that it could mean your EGR valve is stuck open. Is this true?

Even like this, it's very tolerable for driving compared to how it used to be. It's great. Thanks for all the input.

 

If the EGR valve is stuck shut, the code 32 will not set for about 10-15 mins of easy town driving.

If it is stuck open, it is the same as any vacuum leak (lean mixture, air bypassing the Maf).

If the IAC control is, stuck and open, the symptoms could act like the min air on the TB is open too far (high idle speed), or if the IAC passage is plugged up and/or, stuck and closed, the symptoms could act like the TB min air is too low (low idle speed).

 

Well it comes on as soon as the car starts, so would that mean it's stuck open? It doesn't seem to be running lean.

The idle is actually very close to perfect. It's right around 850-900 rpms. I don't think there is anything wrong with the IAC or anything because of this. It didn't die until about 45 minutes of regular driving with the exception of hitting it in 1st and 2nd one time.

 

Has the IAC passage been cleaned yet?
Were the EGR passages cleaned/checked when EGR changed?

With the codes being new, something has changed that the computer sees as a EGR problem but not necessarily a bad EGR.

Refer to the following picture from the service manual on EGR.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...lanket-006.jpg

Re: TPI EGR Solenoid mystery
I.P. wire (39) is egr solenoid power and the gray (435) is the computer control. At the appropriate time (per the tune, correct coolant/engine temp, ect...) the ecm will gnd this wire (435) and if the wire (935) doesn't apply a gnd in the proper amount of time (temp reached, per tune, ecm program) a code is set.

I get this after about 10 mins of driving, (no egr but have temp wire hooked up)

The dark green wire (935) is the temp feedback, to tell the ecm that the egr valve opened.

Re: TPI EGR Solenoid mystery I am not in a test area. I get to work about 5 min after the light sets and it clears when I restart. There is no noticeable change with or without egr.

You can disable the 32 code by raising the enable temp in the code or fixing the egr valve.

Clear the code by unhooking your battery. The dark green wire will read some of the coolant temp but is primarily for reading the exhaust gases passing through the egr.

 

The solenoid is an electronically controlled vacuum port. Once the solenoid is activated vacuum is placed on the egr and opens it. If you have a crack depending on where it is you might have a vacuum leak. This will mess up your idle, which from what I'm reading still isn't where it should be, and it won't allow the EGR to open which will set a code.

 

The only thing that will set the code is if the ECM calls for the EGR valve to open and the temp feedback is wrong.

If the temp is high (stuck part way open) then you get immediate, allowing time for exhaust to heat (seconds) code 32.

There can be vacuum leak symptoms, only if the IAC can't over come the leak (stuck wide open, zero IAC counts).

If it never heats up (stuck shut or removed) code 32 after 5-10 mins (BUA BUC ABTK chips)

Intake temps will affect the time it takes to throw a code, one chip I have OEM stock memcal for a 350 TA, AKXZ, No 32 codes and I have EGR and temp sending unit installed but no solenoid or vacuum lines.