ok,i always wondered how to test my injectors.So i guess all i do is set my volt meter to ohms.Now i guess i then test the injector by the 2 terminals on it.So im guessing the highr the number i get the more resistance there is.Now if im not right so far can someone help me out.Cause i wanna test them,and how many ohms should the meter be reading?

My car is a 86 Trans Am TPI 305,thanks

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[This message has been edited by 86TransAmTPI (edited September 21, 2001).]

 

Someone from the Corvette forum sent me this Word document detailing the process some time ago. Hopefully you will be more motivated than I...
http://www.1le.net/~1le/tmp/l98_injectors.doc
Good luck

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87 Formula 350 13.94@96.67
98 Z28 1LE 13.15@107.59
1LE Owners Association

 

86TPI,

A resistance test on injectors really doesn't tell you much about them, unless you have a failing solenoid coil. That is not very common, and most injector problems are related to the flow rates and spray patterns of the injectors.

Normal cold resistance should be about 16 ohms, but injectors will operate very well down to 10-11 ohms. Since the injectors are wired in parallel and batch fired, the differences in resistance are insignificant and irrelevant of flow rates. Each injector will draws whatever current is necessary to open, regardless of the resistance of the coil (unles of course it is completely shorted or open).

It is far more important to test the flow rates of the injectors, and no electrical test can determine that.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

 

OK thanks guys,now how do i go about testing the flow rate of my injectors???

 

You need a test bench for that. I'd say it's not impossible to mock up a test stand with a 555 timer and some drivers among other simple parts and a set of graduated cylinders, a spare fuel pump and battery, but sending them out to be sonic cleaned and flow matched seems much more realistic.

IMO, with the dropping price of fuel injectors (Ford SVO and Accell) it's not worth it to have them cleaned and matched, just get new ones.

Most common problem is leaking which could easily be checked by bolting up the assembled rail to the fuel lines but leaving the injector plugs off, and jumping the terminals in the ALDL to keep the fp running. Another safer 'indoor' method I used was blocking the return, and hooking up regulated compressed air at 60psi to the supply side. drip some soapy water on the nozzles and see if there's bubblage. This gave away 3 of my injectors having some serious leaking, although the impedance for all 8 of them was in spec.