Anybody know the easiest way to adjust rockers on my crate motor. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

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Mods: ZZ4 engine w/stock TPI, adj, fuel pres. reg., MSD 8.5, HI6S ign. w/ PS-91 coil, K&N filter, TPI air foil, Hooker comp. shorties, American Thunder flows. 160* stat., TB bypass, 3"cowl, bat. relocate, AC delete, stock T-5 w/ 3.42 rear, ported plenum, 24# inj.

 

I'm too tired to type it out, but if you do a quick search on the general board i guarantee you'll find the process spelled out...

 

Turn the motor over until the lifter on each valve is on the flat part of the cam(about 3/4 of the lobe is flat) and tighten until the pushrod will no longer spin, this is zero lash. Tighten 1/4 to 2/3 turn past zero lash. With some heads you can see where the lifter is compared to the retainer holding it in place, so it is easy to tell how open/shut the valve is. If you can't see, just crank the engine so #1 is at TDC and find a list on the internet of what valves are completely closed.

Another thing you could do is tighten them all to zero lash, crank the engine, readjust, and so on until they are all tight. That way if the valve is open, cranking the engine will close it so the lash will be adjusted properly next time(or next time). You have to rotate the engine a lot to check though.

 

Remembering that the exhaust valves are directly above the exhaust ports, looking from front to back of the engine, you should have the valves as follows: (E)xhaust, (I)ntake:
E E
I I
I I
E E
E E
I I
I I
E E
*
To adjust, turn the crank by hand by putting a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt and turn it clockwise, adjusting each pair of valves separately.
When the exhaust valve just starts to open, adjust the intake side.
When the intake valve just starts to close after being open, adjust the exhuast side.
This ensures that the valve being adjusted is at the flatest point on the cam lobe.
To adjust, first loosen the polyock nut until the rocker is loose and the pushrod can be "twirled" freely. Tighten down until the pushrod just starts to have tension while twirling it. Then tighten another 1/4 to 1/2 turn if coarse threads on studs, 1/2 to 1 turn if fine threads on studs, then tighten the lock.
Usually you will have the locking set bolts on fine threads and the plastic lock washers type nut on coarse threads.

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Rob
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Maybe you have a good hand, but if a first timer takes this advice the valves are going to be hung open from being over tight. You tighten it until there is no play in the pushrod, but if you tighten it till it can't spin you will have bottomed the plunger in the lifter which is over tight