I am installing a Fuel Pressure guage in my 92 Z. The shcrader valve is on the passenger side fuel rail and I am running the guage on the driver side in an A-pillar pod. The longest amount of 4AN line I could find (thats not custom made) is 6 ft. I can't find a good spot to run the line into the car and to the guage(reagrdless of line length). I don't see anywhere on the firewall that would work...either b/c of line length issues or crap in the way. My idea was to run it through the fender and through the door....up the a -pillar and to the guage. But I am shaky here b/c of clearance isues and possible pinching the line, etc, etc. What the heck do I do!?!?!?!? Where have you guys run your 4AN line into the car close to the driver side A- pillar? I want a clean look and am not going to hack anything up.
thanks for any comments..ideas...pictures

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Alex A. (aka chevyboy)
1992 Z-28 L98/1LE. Heritage Edition. SLP runners, gutted cats, SLP 3" cat-back & muffler. 3" flo-tech cut-out, SLP TB foil, K&N filter @ TB, 3.23 posi rear.

 

not a good issue in saftey running live fuel into
the drivers compartment. possible fuel leak
from gauge (it happens). and youve got 1/2
gallon of fuel in your lap before your stopped.
thats why the electric senders are used.
ive got four bad leaking gauges from customers.
airdeano

 

yeah..the thought is always at the back of my mind about that happening. I have never personally experienced any bad luck w/ leaking guages *knock on wood*. Well, the whole reason for the guage was to watch FP when I am on the bottle, but what if I were just to run a small FP guage at the schrader valve for tuning purposes and run the FP cut off switch? I guess that would be a good route. Only problem is the FP guage looks great w/ the air/fuel guage next to it and I already have all the stuff here to do it. Dang...maybee Ill just fork out the extra cash for the electric one. Don't I still have to run some thick line/hose into the car though. Like coolant/water...or is the electricl totally different?....just wires???

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Alex A. (aka chevyboy)
1992 Z-28 L98/1LE. Heritage Edition. SLP runners, gutted cats, SLP 3" cat-back & muffler. 3" flo-tech cut-out, SLP TB foil, K&N filter @ TB, 3.23 posi rear.

 

The electric is just wires you run into your car, nothing else. Well, and a sending unit, too. It's just a little electronic box.

I run a 4AN line into my car for my nitrous pressure gauge, and I did have to drill at the firewall above the gas pedal to get it in there. There really is no better way.

I believe it is worth it to fork over the extra cash for the electric unit. If they made an electric nitrous gauge, I would have went that route.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

[This message has been edited by Omar (edited November 03, 2001).]

 

You can still use the mechanical gauge, just have to use an isolator.

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86 Camaro Sport
LT1 Induction
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Hooker Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
Moderator at SE ThirdGen

 

Especially if you want to race.It is mandatory to use an isolater if you mount a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the drivers compartment.Tech will most likely kick you out if you don't.

 

Get the electric gauge. There is a black box that mounts under the hood. There are terminals on it to wire up a sender. Your fuel line runs to it. Then, ries on the other side run to your gauge.

There is a little plug in the firewall on the drivers side. I punched itout and run wires and gauge lines through there. It comes out close to the fuse panel under the dash and makes it easy to hide those things under there.

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-86 IROC

-=ICON Motorsports=-