What parts should I look at to cure this little problem. I will be pulling the plenum and runners to install an adjustable reg so wile I am in there I might as well fix the EGR as well. Is there a way to remove it all together and not get a code? Can someone reprogram my PROM to delete the EGR and smog pump crap? Thank's

Phil

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose

 

I had this same problem a few months back. The thing to remember is that this can be triggered by many things. Just because the light appeared does not mean you are in immediate trouble. Code 32 appeared for me because I had a vaccum cord loose. After a little tightening and adjustment to the solenoid mine went away. If your going to buy a new one, it'll cost about $50-70 for the valve. Another thing to remember is that your car is not in trouble. The engine will not suffer from not having this replaced. If you keep the faulty valve on the engine for an extended period of time you may notice it stall when you apply your brakes in drive. However, it should continue to idle fine. A lot of users have said despite their problems with the valve, they have not had any occurances where the engine has stalled on them. The only thing that may suffer is your gas mileage. That's what I know about EGR problems... Hope this helps.

 

Not saying this is your answer but I had the code and swapped out the valve and a few old vacuum lines that where starting to dry rot and it solved my code. You can always test your valve while the plenum is off to see if it is stuck open like mine was.

 

I had the infamous Code 32 on my car for several months. I replaced all the vacuum lines, new EGR valve and new EGR solenoid. The code kept coming back. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong. One day I replaced my gas cap because the rubber ring in it was dry rotted. Since then I haven't had the code again.

 

Mine went away with the temp sensor(EGR) and new MAT sensor.