I just scanned my car with Auto X-Ray and got these two codes 32 EGR Failure, and 46 Anti-theft System failure. Any Ideas please help.

Also, throttle sensor 0.78 volts. O2 sensor 164 mVolts, Block learn 119, integrator 128, MAP sensor 1.01 volts, spark advance 25.9 degrees, imjector pulse 1.5mS, runs lean.

thanks

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91Z28
SLP runners, Accel base, fuly ported intake, chip, no cat, 3" exhaust, electric fans,
13.82@98.64mph
Slow, Slow, and yes Slow

 

The EGR code can be from either A. The EGR valve itself or B. The EGR vaccuum solenoid located on the passenger side rear of the intake. You can test the solenoid. With the ignition on and the engine off ground the diagnostic terminal (A and B on the ALDL box)... then unplug the big vaccuum connector going to the solenoid and apply 10* of vaccuum to the bottom vaccuum port on the solenoid. The solenoid should be able to hold 10* of vaccuum.

If It Can't: (if it can skip to the next part)

Unplug the electrical connector to the solenoid and connect a test light between the two terminals. If the light comes on, replace the solenoid. If the light does not come on, probe each connector on the harness with a test light connected to ground. If there is no light on either one, repair the open in the circuit from the fuse box to the EGR solenoid (could be blown fuse.) If the light comes on at one terminal, check for an open in the circuit from the EGR solenoid to the ECM. If the circuit has no open, check the resistance of the solenoid. It should have more than 20 ohms. If it doesn't, replace the solenoid and the ECM. If it does, either the ECM connection or the ECM itself is faulty. NOTE: before replacing the ECM, check the resistance of each ECM controlled realay and solenoid coil with an ohmmeter. Replace any relay or solenoid if the coil resistance measures less than 20 ohms.

If it can hold vaccuum:

take the paper clip out of the A and B terminals that you grounded earlier ... the vaccuum should then drop.

If there is no drop in vaccuum, disconnect the wire to the solenoid. If the vaccuum then drops, then you have a possibl short to ground in the EGR solenoid circuit. If there is no short to the ground then the ECM is faulty.

If there is a drop in vaccuum, then the EGR solenoid is Ok and you might have a problem with the EGR valve itself.

I was occasionally getting an EGR code myself with my 305 so during the engine swap I replaced the EGR solenoid which was only like $25 and I took the EGR valve off the intake and sprayed it really good with WD40... a sticking EGR valve can cause problems too.

As for the Anti-theft code, I don't have VATS so I don't know but I would guess that your VATS module is bad and I believe it's located under the dash somewhere.

As for the other readings you got....

The TPS voltage is probably ok. The best way to check the TPS is to watch the voltage as you increase rpms at idle. The voltage should steadily increase with the rpms with no drops in voltage and at WOT the voltage should be over 4 volts. With the engine off but the key on, the TPS voltage should read .54v +/-.075v.

The BLM is a little low at 119... the optimal range is 128 and that's probably why it's saying you're a little lean. The integrator being at 128 is good. It's basically showing that the ECM is compensating for the low BLMs and bringing it back up to 128.

I have MAF so I can't help you on the MAP voltage.

No idea on the Injector pulse width either.

The spark advance is again best noted while increasing rpms. Rev the engine slowly and find the point where the spark advance is at it's highest point. It should be at it's highest point by the time it hits 3000 rpms. Once you find it's highest point take that number and add it to your base timing and that's your total timing.... should be around 34-36 for optimum performance.

Of course this number can be affected by the number of knock incidences in the ECM. The ECM will retard the timing so much for each knock incidence.

If you have any more questions I'll try my best to answer them.

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1986 Trans AM
355 TPI
4 Wheel Disc Brakes
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
6" rods, approx. 9.7:1 Compression, Stock TPI (soon to be ported), 24#/hr LTI injectors (cleaned and flowmatched by Cruizin Performance), Hedman Shorty Headers, 3" exhaust with 80 series flowmaster, SBC 993 heads completely redone and modified for 1.6 RR, 1.52 RR (for now), Comp Cams XE262-14 TPI Cam, Holley AFPR, TPIS airfoil, MSD wires, MSD 6-AL Ignition, Hypertech 53,000 volt coil.

Track times to come.

 

Actually on my last post I say that your BLM being low is probably why it's showing lean. Actually I think that low BLMs means it's running a little rich. I don't know why it says you're running lean. The BLM is actually ok so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

 

Thanks,
I was hoping that I could just replace the egr valve and move on but now I guess i'll actually have to do some diagnostic work.

I can't believe that the car runs as good as it does with those problems, I can't wait to get them fixed and see if my times get any better.

Thanks alot for you help.

Paul

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91Z28
SLP runners, Accel base, fuly ported intake, chip, no cat, 3" exhaust, electric fans,
13.82@98.64mph
Slow, Slow, and yes Slow

Also 92 Mustang LX 5.0 'Vert
H-pipe, Flowmasters, coil, 3.73 gears,
three row radiator, pullies, and no smog
equipment.
Just a hair SLOWER at 14.062@97.58mph