I have the pressure set at 38, I was going to raise it but the screw seems tight, is that normal? Before I lowered to 32 then back, turned about two turns, do I have a problem? I am running bosh disign III 22 lb injectors, still having a problem with rough idle and blm swinging 128 to 90. This is on a 350 motor, I had AFI reburn the prom, still problems.

well the stock HSR stamped holley AFPR is a piece of CR@P! i got mine before i heard they sucked and i got a billet kirban unit. alot of ppl complain bout the HSR AFPR. u mite just need to work the screw back an forth to clean the threads. the screw shouldnt be easy to turn but not so ur really struggling with it.

38psi is pretty low. should be at least 43.5 psi injectors flow best in high PSI due to better distribution of fuel and better spray patterns... at 38psi... its like a squirt gun just a stream, u want a spray atomization

Not good, I will try to workit, but I know the pressure was 38 when I first tested it, I will let you know.

I THINK YOU HAVE MORE PROBLEMS THAN THE fp.. FORD RUNS THOSE INJECTORS AT 37, EVEN ON THE COBRA.. yOUR BLM'S ARE GOING FROM STOICH TO REAL RICH. SOMETHING IS TELLING THOSE INJECTORS TO OPEN UP. ARE YOU SURE THE TPS IS RIGHT, ALSO COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.. MAYBE ITS STAYING IN OPEN LOOP. HOW IS THE O2.. WHAT WAS IT DOING BEFORE THE INJECTOR SWAP..

I have spent ALOT of money on parts, the tps, I just reset to .55, I bought one for a 90 but it's non adjustable and returnable so I will bore out the mounting holes to make it fit. the coolant sensor has been replaced also. I just installed a three wire heated o2 from ac delco. So leave the fp at 38? Could it be something to do with the program on the prom? Can you think of anything else to check? I don't understand, everything is brand new.

I have been thinking and when I replaced the cam, I saw the bearing were worn, the cam seemed to be loose, but I don't have a place to tear down the motor for cam bearings so I went with it. Would that cause my problems?

yea a cam bearing will ruin ur weekend and ur motor. ford rates there injectors at lower pressures like stated above... GM rates them at 43.5. so really a ford SVO 30# injector is like a 32# GM/bosh injector.

when did you do the cam? I bet you adjusted the valves to tight.. if you hava a tight intake valve hanging open or two the cylinder wont compress the mixture to ignite it. it would go out the exhaust as unburned raw gas showing up in low number block lrn multiplier, making the ECU go crazy trying to correct it. Explain how you set the valve lash

When I replaced the cam I had help from a certified mechanic, I got them close to start and then with it running backed off each one till it made noise then 3/4 turn after they are silent. Is 3/4 too much? The mechanic that helped me has 30yrs + experience, let me know if I am good. I got my adapter from moates and trying to learn to just copy a prom is hard! I will post questions on that at diy/ efi.

readjust the valves. do it this way.. take plugs out. start at cyl 1.. tap engine till 1 valve is all the way open.. adjust the valve next to it.. turn nut down while feeling pusrod turn. when it stops turning in your fingers tighten 1/4 turn. 3/4 is to much. then tap till that valve is down and adjust the other.. then do the same for all cylinders.

I have done the research, the Hanes book for the camero/ firebird says 3/4 turn, however I did look in the Chiltons for the 1986 truck, it stated 1/2 to 1-1/4 turn. how did you find out about 1/4 turn?

There are alot of people with their methods on adjusting VALVE LASH.. The best method to use is called EOIC

Staring with cylinder 1 when then exhaust valve is just starting to open adjust the intake valve. It varies from person to person. I adjust to 0 lash by checking up and down movement on the push-rod not by twisting the rod. Then turn the the rocker nut only 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn. Then turn over the engine again until the Intake valve fully opens and then when it iis 50% closed and do the same for the exhaust valve. Continue on until all cylinders are complete. Ensure all rocker locks are tightened down.

I have never adjusted any hydraulic more than 1/4 turn.

Would I be able to loosen all the rockers by 1/2 OR do you suggest going from zero THEN tightning 1/4? I DO think that if the rockers are to tight that it will cause trouble.

OFF subject: where do I post my old 86 TPI set up for sale? I have look and only found, "you cannot post"?

If you have your engine running currently, You can do it with your engine running also. Start it up.. Do 1 rocker at a time. Loosen the nut just enough until you start hearing the lifter clatter. Give it a second or two with the engine running to pump the lifter back up then slowly tighten the nut until all the clattering stops. Then I give mine 1/4 turn and lock the poly nut down. I hear some people give 1/2 and some will say 3/4. I think that is way to much. I always do the EOIC when I 1st adjust the valves before I do an initial start on an engine. Then I readjust on a warm engine running.

Thanks for the advice, I will see if that is my problem, I will let you know.

The lash was set at 3/4 turn, so I backed them off 1/4 turn and NO change, stared it up and it does the same think, stumble and die. I am trying to burn a new prom, still new to tuning so this will take awhile.

Just for kicks, I went ahead and reset the TPS and the IAC, then turned the idle set way down the see if the idle will calm. Now the idle is better but the IAC is not closing, if I turn up the idle set screw the idle just goes up? I will do more searching but if you have any info let me know.

Can someone tell me where the vacuum lines go to that are on the side of the throttle body? I have them caped off but if they are suppost to be connected I would like to know.