couple questions. Is there a trick to getting the tank out easily. The fill neck is giving me troubles. Second, while i got half the rear end of my car torn apart, is there any inexpensive upgrades that can easily be done while i'm under here. Everything is stock w/ 135K miles. putting in a NAPA pump any good?
thanks in adavance.

 

I've done 2 tank r&r's to date. I have yet to find a "trick" to make it simpler. That stupid filler neck is always the problem.
I just always end up bending the neck to remove. As long as you don't bend it too much you can straighten it back out once it's reinstalled.

 

i take the door hinge off, and the plastic thing around the filler neck, i also make sure there isnt alot of gas left inside.

while your under there you can upgrade your sway bar end links with poly ones, uhhh perhaps change your gear oil while your at it, lowering springs, shocks, and perhaps maybe a new panhard bar and sway bar. it all depends how much cash you got on hand, rear shocks are a easy to do and are relatively cheap, and make a world of difference, as do the sway bar end links

 

i dont recommend lowering springs, they cause more problem then they are worth, The rear geometry is thrown all off after installing lowering springs. if you do go with lowering springs thats awesome, i totally dig them...but its required, thats you get an adjustable panhard bar with a drop bracket, new rear adjustable lower control arms with drop brackets, new sway bar bushing poly of coarse, new shocks, new adjustable torque arm with new poly mount, and camber adjusters for the front springs. without all that, youd be cursing haa. Ive done 5 tank fuel pump changes, 4 on my ride and 1 on a buddies. I recommend the following....siphon the gas, drop the tank, flush with new gas and dispose in a lawnmower or something, if your fuel tank insulators are still there, ducktape them. when you remove your springs, becareful the rear axle doesnt push forward against the torque arm bushing otherwise your looking a a headache clunk everytime you shift into 2nd, electrical tape the spring insulator to the springs for easy install, yes swap for sway poly mounts( im talking new about new endlinksw/bushings and the sway to axle bushings), always use a torque wrench when reassembling(torque values located in hanyes manual or pm me for reference values that i have), new shocks would be awesome ONLY if new ones are decent (KYB KONI,) and out of all the jobs i performed, the tank is the biggest hassle to get out, i dont recommend bending the filler tube.., it just takes time to get in and out in every possible direction, I WANNA STRESS THAT you should always install a GM fuel pump always, Ive installed three autozone pumps, all failed in a month!! i think the GM fuel pump is an AC DELCO but im not sure, (CHECK WITH a dealer and check with napa, compare part #, you might get it cheaper at napa) next ditch the stock pulsater (connects the fuel pump line to the inlet) and use a neoprene fuel injection hose with clamps.THATS NEOPRENE!!! and for the outside fuel line to hard line, use FUEL INJECTION HOSING. always use a new fuel pump screen inside the tank and get a new fuel filter and i recommend bleeding the pump to prevent hard start by putting 12volts to the G terminal under the dash on the diagnosing unit and holding it there for a min while your pump recirculates gas through the system and bleeds the air out to the tanks return with the gas cap off. make you sure you have gas first hehe