Fuel pump relay = blue, black, orange, orange (4 wires)[/QUOTE]

can you see it in my picture? its hard for me to tell in my pic. im not at home right now to look at it, but i will be in 3 hours.

i really appreciate ya'lls help. i just want to git my baby running. and im hoping its the relay and not the fuel pump

 

So did you ever get her running. I am in the midst of trying to get my 89 Formula 350 running. It was my first new car I ever bought, and stupid me has let her sit a couple years without running and now I have spark, but no start. I think the injectors might be clogged, but I have a mechanic friend coming down tomorrow, to check it out with me. I did check the fuel pump fuse, but its never that simple for me, and even if it was that, Id have to figure out why the fuse blew anyway. Fuses just don't blow unless there's another issue causing it.

 

Yup, got her running. Runs like it was never stored. Had to replace fuel pump & sending unit. 1100 bucks, runs like a champ. I'm surprised. Now I'm trying to gut the break lights workin so I can git it inspected so I can really stretch her legs out.

 

Why do you think the pump went bad and how come so expensive. How was the gas in there. That's what I was afraid of. I hope my gas isn't ****. I filled it 2 years ago.

 

Don't last forever
There is at least one thread a week on here about no starts with " old " gas

Highly recommended you drain the tank , replace with fresh gas and flush out the fuel system to the engine before trying a start

 

Its a full tank so I'm hoping the quantity kept it somewhat OK. Don't feel like draining a whole tank of gas. Where would I even drain it to.

 

It was a small amount of gas not even a gallon & it ruined the fuel pump & screen & messed up the fuel sending unit. It wouldn't have cost so much if the sending unit wouldn't have gone out. It has the float on it for the fuel gauge. I couldda just left it like it was without replacing the sending unit, but I like to know how much fuel I have seeing that it's only a 13 gallon tank. Drain yer tanks when you store it.

 

That's why I filled it up last time I drove it. Figured the more gas the better chance it would not go bad fast. Well I got her running today. I think the injectors were gummed up. Isn't running perfect but I siphoned out as much gas as I could and I'll add some fresh gas and see if it gets better. I have the brakes all apart right now so I can't drive it. Hopefully have brakes back together in a couple weeks and see how she runs. If I have to I'll pull the injectors and send them out to get cleaned. Trick is don't let it sit at all. Drive it every so often.

 

I'm having an issue like this. Went to go to store car fired and shut right off. It's a daily driver so I immediately looked at fuses they are all good. I have a 92 formula l98 and no fuel pump activity when I turn on the key. Could it be the pump?

 

Try this. There is a terminal on the aldl port that you can hotwire. Add 12 volts and it willl cause the fp to turn on. If it does turn on, then the fp relay or the the oil pressure switch could be bad.

 

Also check to see if there is voltage at the fp relay.

 

Pull the codes and see what is showing.
Your car has VATS which can give a fire / shut off condition

FWIW
if a pump relay problem , the car should start when you crank it over if your OP switch is working correctly

 

Ok, will do that. It could be the oil press as I have seen a change in press on the gauge but it still works when I crank it over shows 25lbs.

VATS, it turns over, has spark, and also I can feel the injectors clicking...

There's just no fuel pump activity.

 

There is no place for the wire on the aldl.

I pulled and switched relays and also jumped the wires and sent power directly to the pump still nothing.

 

Then if the pump Don't prime, its bad. Check for voltage at the pigtail by the tank.

 

It doesn't have voltage unless I jump it. And then still not functional.

 

Interesting. I don't remember too well, but you might wanna check the fuse or fusible links next to the battery. One might be blown.

 

Also, if the pump doesn't prime when you apply 12 volts, then its bad. Strange that it'll turn on and stop when you crank it.

 

It does not turn on at all. No prressure.

 

Bad pump dude. What ever you do, don't get airtex. I hear too many bad things about them. I must be very fortunate with my airtex because Ive had mine for about 4.5 years with no problems.

 

Terminal G

 

 

Lol, already in the car. Lets hope for the best...

Thank you for your help through this!!!

:-)

 

Where the wire on G should be it's empty so to speak lol...

 

I hate to resurrect an old thread but here goes. Got an 89 Camaro 2.8 a couple days ago. I'm not really sure but I can faintly hear the pump when I hot wire it via the ACLC. Tank is empty and has been ran since 2002. I've checked both 20amp fuse near the battery. I'm not sure how to test the fuel relay and also, I found a gray connector near my battery just unplugged. Need to know what it's for

My battery is located on the passengar side.what is the gray connector for?!?

 

What color are the wires coming off of the gray connector? That looks very much like a relay should be stuck to it.

 

What do you mean by "shoot the power"? You mean test/probe for power?

 

I have same problem. Found fuse. Fuse is good and has power, so what now?

 

where do we find the schematic?

 

Hi,

Read the rest of this thread to see how to test Fuel Pump.
I have the shop manual for 1987 Camaro. this manual has step by step diagnostics that a Auto Tech would use.
You can download schematics from www.alldata.com
thirdgen.org might have these also.
So you have a no start situation - engine cranks but no start?
thirdgen.org is a great site I have used to diagnose my no start problem. I started by testing the Ignition system then tested Fuel Pump Circuit - but you can test fuel pump first - by following the links below.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...questions.html

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...-diagnostics-1

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....ed-icm-tests-1

 

Okay I have an 86 trans am LB9 tpi and the wire to my fuel pump/ecm is burnt up badly all the way to the connector the dual prong male female connector the fuse side is okay, my question is I have one wire that comes from the power side of the battery cable where does the other side of this fuse wires go to

 

 

So both sides of the fuse have 12v correct

 

 

Thanks that explains why my car was not wanting to start. My fuel pump went out and the wire burnt up. I wish someone had the male and female two prong connector I can solder into my harness

 

 

Thank you! So much, I'm assuming that both power wires came from the black and red wires that feed off of the POS. Battery cable
​​​​​​

 

Also one last question how much of a voltage drop are y'all getting at the fuel pump connector above the axle I'm getting 6.98v my battery has 11.81v. so I've got 5 volts missing but with a full charge and the alternator output of 14.5 if the voltage drop is constant it should be close to 10v at the connection

 

 

This is a good thread! lots of good info. I have wondered why so many third gen cars were parted or sent to boneyard for a "fuel pump" when in fact could one or more issues like fuse or bad connection, I definitely didn't see all these issues on the fourth gens. My worst skills are the electrical and this thread has given me some good incite on things to check on the derelict I just bought -90 Formula TPI with you guessed it! -A dead fuel pump my old 87 Trans am was carbed so I never had these issues

 

So the red and black wire that are supposed to come from the battery power cable to the fused weather pack my red one is burnt to the cable and I think I figured out the voltage drop my tank is out of the car and so I can't test voltage while running I think I'm getting prime voltage. But my main concern is the wire that is supposed to be coming out of my battery cable and I'm sure it went to my ecm/fuel pump fuse

i don't know if y'all can see the little burnt wire on the cable junction

 

 

The fuel pump went out because the black isolator that wraps around the pump deteriorated and the pump screen deteriorated keep in mind it was original pump so the pump picked up this bubble gum like substance and was pushing hard. Take a look in the picture below

 

 

Thanks that's the first thing that I did it whoever designed it was an idiot. I'm a certified tech but some of this old stuff gets me confused the new wiring diagrams are color coded. But in all honesty this pump had seen better days everything was just falling off I put in a new 255lph fuel pump I wanna hear this pump to me it's a good thing I know it's working. But after the pump and wiring I'm putting in a World Class T5 and 305 vortec heads with a stealth ram

 

Hey guys I just wanted to say thank you for all your help and support my cooling fans are now working off of the factory setup thanks to the new harnesses from Hawks Motorsports and I'm actually getting full voltage now at the connection at the tank believe it or not I was using my multimeter wrong Lol. And I'm a certified electrical diagnostic tech but it was 1:00 am but everything is going well and next is the 3.70 gears and 5-speed install because my upper intake is on a 6 month back order

 

My car is alive and well thank you guys so much she cranked right up

 

Hi I have a camaro 89 iroc z 5.0, I have a problem with acceleration hesitation, and only happens when I press the accelerator is like not gettin enough gas or something like that, do u guys have any idea what a could be the problem, or where to start checking for possible problems

 

You need to start your own thread. Have you done tuneup items yet ?
fuel pressure good under a load ?