Alright, so did an intake swap, headers, exhaust back in the spring. And then had to park my car back in May for a surgery. Started her up a few weeks ago and she'd idle and die. So I checked a few things, changed the pcv valve, set timing, and fuel pressure, and it only runs once the engine heats up.
And if it's cold and I unplug the MAF the car runs fine, idles high but runs.
I did clean the IAC as well, and I honestly can not think of anything else that is wrong with her.
I'm going to go out tomorrow morning and reset my TPS Voltage; but I'm pretty sure that a low or high voltage won't cause a non idle issue when cold.

Am I correct that it's an bad MAF?

 

Well no replies.
Just for the people wondering; before I stored my GTA in May for my surgery, it would hesitate when started cold, and would stall out unless I gave it some gas. Then it would run like **** until the temperature came on the gauge.
Then it would run like a champ.
So I figured that was all because my MAF was dying. So I bought another one today. And i'll let you guys know how it all goes when I get it.
So if anyone has this problem, hopefully I can help you out from my experience, seeing as no one chose to help me out, even though I know someone has had this experience.

 

When you cleaned the IAC and it's passages, did you test it? Sounds 100% like an IAC problem. It's not just thirdgens that these go out on either. I've replaced the IAC on almost every vehicle that either myself or my family has owned (that has an IAC, at least)

 

How do you test one, and wouldnt the maf being unplugged and the car running great show that the maf is bad?

 

Well it's 50/50. It could definitely mean the MAF is bad, or it could mean when the MAF is unplugged, some other devices go into a default mode. Test your IAC before you buy a $150+ MAF sensor (many auto parts stores don't allow returns on electronic components)

To test the IAC, remove the IAC from it's home in the throttle body, connect it and lay it somewhere easy to see. Put a paperclip between contacts A&B in your diagnostic port (same thing for checking engine codes). Turn the car to run (but don't start it) and see if the pintle moves out. Don't let it move out too far, or the pintle will shoot out of the IAC then you will have to replace it. If it moves out steadily, then it's working, which means go buy a MAF.