I ran my car in the 1/8th and the best I managed to score was 10.5 @ 67MPH with a 2.3 60' and .200 RT.

I know the 305 isn't the fastest kid on the block, but I was expecting AT LEAST low 10s or high 9s.

Info on the car:

Stock 85 305TPI long block with,

- K&N airfilters and the airbox below the filters gutted.
- Airfoil
- MSD cap and rotor with accel supercoil
- NGK sparkplugs gapped at .035 with accel wires
- SLP runners with port matched plenum (The base is still stock but will be upgraded soon)
- TB coolant bypass
- A/C delete
- Smog delete
- Edelbrock TES headers with matching Ypipe, gutted cat and flowmaster 40 series exhaust
- Jet stage 2 "Performance" chip
- 3.23:1 pegleg rear
- Boss hog 12" converter stalling at 3000RPM with SFI chromoly flexplate.
- Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials (I learned the hard way these tires are a bit tall. Going to 50 series on my net replacement)
- UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Spohn panhard bar and Lakewood boxed style LCA's.

I know alot of these are free mods (Most done by a PO), but come on. 10.5 ET and 2.3 60'? I was expecting a little better than that. I was shifting out of first at 5000RPM and I crossed the finish line at the precise moment second gear hit about 4800RPM.

Does this sound about right or do you guys suspect something is amiss?

 

What do you mean by tires being too tall?

Get that 60 ft down under 2 you should be in the 9s or real close

 

That's the thing that was the best 60' I could pull. When both cars staged with the yellow light, I held the brake to the floor and smashed the gas pedal to the floor. Somewhere between the third light and the green and let go of the brake and took off. No wheel spin.

By tires being too tall, I mean taller tires take away gearing. If I was packing a bigger motor no problem but I don't think these tires are well suited for a 305.

 

Dont do that. You want your stall fo flash to 3000rpm. Meaning smash your foot on the gas as soon as that last yellow turns on. Every time I tried to bring my car up to stall my 60' and overall times would suffer. I have similiar mods to you and Im over a second faster.

 

Really?! I know each converter is diff but what would you recommend as a starting tinkering point for brake stalling before flashing?

 

All I do is have the car in "D" with my left foot on the brake and my right hoovering the gas pedal. As soon as the last yellow flashes I stomp on the gas. I get my best times doing it that way. Every time I try to stall it up my times suffer.

PM DynoDon, he can give you a few tips.

 

How significantly did your times suffer by trying to stall it up?

 

Usually a tenth or two. It wont give you a second but it will help.

 

Something still doesn't seem right. I don't see 9.2 vs 10.5 with only 3.23 vs 3.42 and taller tires.

 

what location and altitude

 

http://www.olddominionspeedway.com/O...trip_Main.html

Not sure of altitude. It's located in Manassas, VA.

 

Tires make a huge difference, because your new tire is 2 inches taller then you orginal tire...this takes your 3.23 gears to 2.99. That hurts allot.

Other than that you should still be allot faster. Make sure your timing is right, if it is off it will hurt your low end power and make it slow out of the hole.

With a PegLeg you might still have wheelspin issues even with the DR. Especially with a 2800-3000 stall convertor.

On my GTA with Nitto DR I still spun out of the whole until I dropped the pressure way down and heated them up hard.

Anyway goodluck.

 

One thing I forgot to mention, this is NOT the original motor that was in the car. According to a PO (Although I cannot validate this claim), the original motor threw a rod through the bottom of the block. The motor that he put in the car flattened a cam lobe 3 months after I bought the car, and trashed the entire engine.

I ended up laying down $1400 and buying a remanufactured 305 longblock through a company called surefire engines (Partner of autozone). The engine was a reman for years 79 - 85 but tuned for fuel injection.

I can verify that they used the same heads and valvetrain that was on my old engine, but one of two things come to me that they used either a really mild cam or I might need a tune.

 

Probably the wrong cam then. That would make a huge difference. esp since you have such a wide spread of years, mostly covering the carb/TBI era.

 

Do you think they put the p-nut cam in there?

 

looks to be about 191 ft

 

I'm not sure what cam they used. I'm gonna cal autozone tomorrow and see if I can get their contact info so I can see about getting the part number.

But that's what I've always thought is they used a different cam and the ECM isn't properly tuned for it.

This is the one I bought:

http://www.surefireengines.com/cgi-bin/info?VC05

It doesn't say anything about the cam though. The most specific info it gives us pertaining to my car is that it was manufactured for "VIN F".

I ran the head casting numbers when I pulled a valve cover and they appear to be the same as the stock heads they used in 85.

Would it tell you guys anything if I were to post up a datalog?

 

I contacted a technician from surefire. He is awaiting for the builders to get back to him on the exact model number of the cam but they did E-Mail him the specs and according to what he was told the lift is .260/.273


W

T

F

!

 

Guys, I think I found it. I think the numbers he quoted me were the actual lobe lift. They had to be.

http://www.melling.com/Portals/5/pdf...ifications.pdf

Look at the CCS-2 cam on page 1. This translates into .390 intake and .410 exhaust. A little better than the 86 peanut cam but still not as good as the stock cam in 85. Stock rebuild my a$$!

I am still waiting back on a phone call to confirm this.

 

my stock 92 305 tbi runs 10.15's with 2.11 60ft and cuts .050 lights fairly
consistant, it does have a 2800 stall, 2.73 gears with 275/60's.

 

Right about just leaving without trying to stall it up especially if the converter is stock. Pretend youre at a stoplight and goose it when its green all youre doing now is heating up your tranny fluid.

First time or two at the track is usually humbling. Make sure its in great tune avoid the burnout box leave it in "" and leave on the last yellow.

Youll get those 60ft and trap times down dont worry.

First time out in an 89 C4 I had was 15.2 I about puked. Once in better tune and leaving like the gentleman above you said it dropped to low 14s. 1/4 not 1/8 lol. Best 60 on street tires was 2.0

 

Most 305's from those years came with dished pistons and very low compression. Your LB9 would have come from the factory with flat-top pistons and 9.5:1 instead of 8.6:1 compression.

I wouldn't be surprised if they used the dished pistons as well as that crappy cam.

 

Good point Rod. It would be interesting to see what I could find if I managed to get my hands on a fiber optic camera and feed it through a spark plug hole. Anyone have suggestions for this approach?

 

that is odd. I have a 88 GTA 305 TPI auto with Airfoil, AC delete, Cone filter, straight 2 3/4 exhaust from manifolds back, Poly trans mount, and 3.27 gear. My best 1/8th was 9.80, 60ft 2.4 and .400RT.

On the stall idea, I have a newer Trans Am with a 2500 stall and I have to stall it otherwise I go from a 1.9 stalled to a 2.4 flashed... Maybe it depends on the power the car is putting out also.

 

So basically all you have done was runners, ported plenum, exhaust, tc and radials.

I would upgrade to a posi unit. Replace that junk chip and tune the car right yourself. You can see how the car is running and tune it for your needs.

 

Well guys, I believe I found our problem.

I had to go through 3 departments and wait a day for call back, but in addition to that crappy cam they used a low compression rebuild. The guy said they use anywhere from 8 - 8.5:1 compression ratio. So now I have two options. I can either build a 383, or keep this 305 which is already setup for high boost and supercharge it.

 

Turbo it!!!

Also, the STS turbo (rear mount) is probably the easiest/least intrusive setup too. Though I wouldn't put too much boost on it, since the pistons are probably crappy cast things.

 

My carb'd LO3 ran a 8.9 @ 78 with a 1.99 60'. It has 3.23's, 275-60-15's, stock cam, and stock stall.