Okay well first of all thank you for reading my post!!!
okay i just got this iroc z28 its an 1989, a lil story in how i got my hands on it, i work as a welder for a fencing company we where installing a gate i saw this blue car with t-tops on the neighbors house and the end of the day i went and ask if they would sell the car, well it comes out that the owner of that car died a yer ago and the lady didn't have an idea n how much to ask for it,and after she let me to take a closer look of the car i offered her 2k for the car, the paint it's messed up , it its not currently running cause some issue with the vats system, but cranks if i spray gas into the throttle body will run sounds pretty bad ***, but i just like to know how much hp will this car put down, and how good or bad will it be on gas? what you guys think on the price i paid for the car?any idea in how much this car is worth with all this this modifications? any body interested? it has a clean California tittle,and sorry for all those questions!! any help will be very appreciated, thank you!! here a list of the parts that i noticed it has installed

*some red roller rockers
*Edelbrock aluminum heads
*i ran the numbers of the injectors and it comes as svo 30lb injectors arent this injector too big for this engine??
*Slp big runners
*BBk throttle body
*edelbrock waterpump
*it has a true dual exhaust on it with a cat on each side
*it has a lot of metal bar reinforces in the bottom of the car and the torsion bars are like really huge
*it has a 9 bolt Borg Warner disk brake rear end
*drilled brake rotors all around
*Koni in the front and Billstein shocks in the rear
* has a nice b&m shifter
*i looked for the computer and its an delphi electronics and it has a hypertech chip in it
* has some nice chrome 17" iroc wheels on it, they say made in the usa in the back!!!
sorry i forgot to mention that came with a complete msd ignition in the trunk its not installed, msd box ,msd cables, mallory distribuitor, fire ball coil , and another lil part accel branded.

 

5.0 or 5.7?

What heads? Any idea if a cam is in it?
Aftermarket TPI lower base or just runners?

Very hard to say what power can be. It will vary alot depending on the above.

 

Car came with a 5.7l engine vin 8th digit its a 8,and don't think anybody would change a 350 for a 305, about the heads they are edelbrock performer,lower intake looks factory i don't know the difference if it is aftermarket, and i think it does have a cam cause it sounds really loopy when it runs, i just fired two times its sounds really nice!!!

 

i didn't mention it has edelbrock headers too

 

here are some pics of the car!!

 

 

Aftermarket base should have edelbrock stamped on it somewhere or a part number somewhere. Stock base is still a restriction on that motor. Given the heads and SLP runners and unknown cam, it probably is capable of 250whp tuned up with stock base, but if its an aftermarket base, it could be 275whp+. hard to say without knowing the base.

Its typical to see full bolt ons around 250-260whp with decent tune. cam on stock heads should get up to 275whp+. Mild heads package should see 300+

 

What headers are those, may be hard to smog like that, maybe not.
Air tubes have been removed for sure
Youll spend a few bucks on the car but doesnt look bad at all for 2k!

 

Don't know about how much hp, but looks like you got a steal on this car, looks great for 2k, especially with all the bolt-ons

 

 

i would say that air duct needs clamped to the tb, but i assume thats how you were shooting starting fluid in it, but i would deffinatly re route those plug wires lol. they will melt the first 2 mins it runs.

and i dont believe you have a VATS issue either due to it actualy firing up with starting fluid. you should check out the fuel delivery. starting with fuel pressure. checking for power at the relay, after relay, and to the pump. or listen to see if you even hear the pump whine.

 

Hey thank you for the advise!!

 

yeah i know that no smog tubes but i know a few smog check stations on paxton street in san fernando that will pass it!! i always wanted a real 350 iroc with t tops well lets just said i got very lucky that came with tons of extras!!

 

okay now i spend all the afternoon yesterday trying to make it run, it wont start unless like i said a lil bit of starting fluid, now about the fuel pump that thing is working its noise its very noticeable as soon as i open the key i will hear it run, and the car has a fuel pressure gauge on the passenger side fuel rail, it has 48 psi of pressure when i crank it goes a lil bit down, and just to make sure i check the spark it has a good spark so i think the injectors are not firing that's what make me think the vats system has something to do with it and, cause in the interior i just found one switch hidden under the dash and i was wondering what a red button close to the shifter was for and i left the key open and pressed that button and the car cranks from pressing on it, okay something else all the power goes off in the car after trying a few times to crank it i have to disconnect and connect the battery again and all the power comes back on the car

 

wow that realy has to suck having to correct or figure out a previous owners wiring changes. i hate that. but just from the symptoms you described, now it does indeed sound like VATS. because if he has wired the ignition to push button, then he may have "tried" to bybass VATS or he wanted it on there to be "neat" not relizing he went around VATS. but when VATS is initiated, yes it stops injector pulse, but it also has a "3strikes your out" when you try to start it. meaning if it is getting improper resistance to the VATS module, after 3 attempts it will disable cranking i believe. and do funky things lol.

take an ohm meter to the pellet chip in your ignition key and check resistance on it. then go to radio shack and buy a resistor with the same value as the key has for like 99 cents. and wire it in to i believe the gray and purple wire under the dash where it exits the the steering column or into the large connector going into the fuse block. (im a little blurry minded thinking about these steps because its been a couple years since iv had to bypass my VATS in one of my camaros).

 

i believe thats the correct wire but i too am a little fuzzy....its been a long time since i bypassed VATS