Hoping you guys can help me out here.
I am wondering why when i go to get a replacement temp sensor that goes in the front of the manifold, they are giving me a different part. Different stock connector on the wire harness and different body to the sensor.
I did some research..... Turns out, I have the bosch sensor that has the 8 seconds (even though some say 85 seconds) at 35degC stamped on it.
Now, from what i understand, this sensor has a heater or something that makes it different. I was able to find one for 117 bucks that has to be special ordered.
I bought the normal temp sensor, and the pig tail to match so i can splice it in.
So I guess my question is, can i use the normal temp sensor that every auto place tells me is the right one, even though it is very different from the one i am replacing?

The reason I am replacing it, is because the car runs pretty rich and the exhaust smells of rich mix. I replaced plugs, rotor, vac lines, dizzy assembly, and then started testing resistances based on charts i found online.
My air temp sensor in the bottom rear of the TPI has a resistance that is inline with the temp in the shop here. But this sensor had a resistance of about 33ohms. Based on the chart i saw, this correlates to above 200degF. Which is obviously wrong. Wrong, or does this specific bosch sensor not read correctly until the 8 seconds or whatever passes.

Long post i know, sorry, but thanks for any insight or advice.

 

But there are two completely different units at front of early TPI intake

One is the CTS (coolant temp sensor ) for the computer
The same sensor as used for intake air temp

The other is the COLD START switch that operates the COLD START INJECTOR

What are you asking for at the counter?

No
Cold start is a Off / On switch and the CTS is a variable resistance to give temperature indication to computer

CTS circled below
Cold start switch to left of it ( has same connector as the fuel injectors )

 

What I would do 1st before spending any $$ is disconnect the wiring to the cold start injector
( may be hard to start cold ) and see if car still runs rich.
If it does then the cold start injector may be leaking and replacing a expensive switch will change nothing
Info
the cold start switch is supposed to operate the cold start injector only when cranking
and only when engine temp is below the opening setting of switch

 

nice catch, holy moly. I didnt even notice the temp switch that you have circled, because it was shadowed by a bypass hose...
I checked the resistance of the circled sensor, it is reading 6kish. which is correct for the temperature outside here, so that must not be it.
What the hell is causing the rich smell then. It's like eyeburning rich smell.
Thanks for that info tho! i was about to create a catastrophe no doubt..
The engine isn't throwing any codes either. Just the exhaust coming out is kinda whiteish, even in the shop where it shouldn't be fogging from cool air.

 

Try this from the service manual. This is how to test cold start.