HELLO, I HAVE A 83 CAMARO Z28 WITH CROSSFIRE INJECTION, BUT THE IDEL IS DRIVING ME CRAZY TO ERRATIC , I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE OUT THERE CAN TELL ME WHAT I WOULD NEED TO PURCHASE TO SWITCH IT TO A TPI INJECTION SYSTEM AND IF ITS EVEN POSSIBLE ? THANKS

 

Here's a start; http://thirdgenranch.com/-strse-748/...tem/Detail.bok I personally would try to stick with the cross fire and fix what you have.

 

Keep the crossfire man! Its going to be a rare option to find for these cars soon!

 

I agree. A complete swap to fix an idle is totally overkill.

 

it would be easier to swap to tbi.

and just put the x-fire on the shelf. chances are your throttle shafts are wiped on the throttle bodys.

cross fire is tbi,just 2 throttle bodys.

has this car been fully diag'd by a gm tech ? fuel pressure,timing,codes,etc?

you would see some driveability improvement with a later tbi setup and newer 7747 ecm.

$275 for a standalone harness,go to the junkyard and grab a chevy pickup ecm and prom .

http://www.larryselectricsite.com/st...=0&productid=3

 

One more thing to think about, alot of us have had idle issue's with our TPI's that can also be hard to track down. So moving to a TPI set-up may or may not have simular problems. Good luck with your decision.

 

worn throttle shafts,iac,coolant temp sensor

 

thanks for the advice man i think ima stick with it, i just doont know what els to do about the high idle, maybr change the second idle control motor and plugs wires cap and rotor, think that would help or just rebuild it completly?

 

Check for any vacuum leaks around gaskets and any vacuum lines. Also as was mentioned earler, check for sloppy throttle blades that can leak air also.

 

thanks will do.

 

To answer your original question, there are kits all over to swap to TPI. Ebay, the venders on this site, Craigslist...It just depends on which route you want to go. Your 3 basic options are;
1. Complete factory setup, including factory ECM (with correct tuning for 305 or 350), complete wiring harness with sensors, intake manifold with upper plenum and runners, fuel rail, correct sized injectors (305 or 350 sized), and emissions gear. This is usually the cheapest route, but allows little future modification since you're using a factory tune. It also has to be matched to your engine's current setup or it won't run quite right (if you have a larger than stock cam, etc.).
2. Partial factory setup, including complete wiring harness with at least throttle position sensor, air intake sensor, coolant temp sensor, and O2 sensor, intake manifold with upper plenum and runners, fuel rail, and correct sized injectors (305 or 350 sized). For an ECM you would need to use an aftermarket system like Megasquirt, and be willing to do some tuning, either yourself with help from others using a similar system or from a dyno tech. This setup allows you to remove emissions gear and run a simplified setup with or without computer controlled spark, and gives you much greater future modification abilities. This is the moderately priced alternative, depending on which aftermarket ECM you choose. Megasquirt is about $350 for the non-spark controlling MS-I, and can be upgraded later for $90 to MS-II, which does control spark and gives autotune capability, among other goodies. Or you can go the Holley Commander route, and spend easily over $1000.
3. Vender kit, including custom wiring harness (usually built to your specifications), intake manifold with upper plenum and runners, correct fuel injectors (will supply whichever you need), custom ECM (factory re-tuned or aftermarket, dending on vendor), fuel rail, possibly a custom distributor (depends on vendor). This setup allows for a tune built for your specific use, and will work like a factory setup (provided you give an accurate baseline of your engine and needs / desires when you order it). They do all the tuning, and you sometimes get technical help during your install and intial startup, sometimes a warranty (all depending on vendor). Emissions may or may not be included, depending on vendor and region. Fuel Injection Specialties in San Antonio is one of the vendors offering these kits, and will custom build the entire package to suit your needs. If you live in a non-emissions area, you can delete the emissions without any issues (for example, in Texas, except for a few specific counties, cars aged 25 yrs and older are emissions exempt. They aren't even allowed to look for the catalytic converter!). This is the most expensive choice (usually), but also the most plug-n-play as the kit is generally custom built and tuned for your application. If you buy from a local source they will also usually dyno tune it as part of the package.
I personally did option number 2, using a Megasquirt I ECM. I fully admit it's been interesting, and by no means easy, but the end result is well worth the struggle. I also didn't have readily available access to a dyno to make my tuning easier, and I'm fairly inexperienced with EFI systems. I also went that route because my Ebay TPI system, tho complete with all wiring and sensors, was from an '85 corvette including the ECM, which is widely regarded as having the most issues within the programming of any of the TPIs. The '85 Corvette ECM also would have necessitated the installation of all the emissions gear to work properly, which since my car is an '83 Z/28 (4-BBL 305 H.O. car originally) and I'm in Bexar county, Tx, my car is exempt from.
It all comes down to how much you're willing to invest, both monetarily and perspiration-wise.
As for the crossfire...well, there's a reason it has the nickname "catchfire injection"...