Hi

I have a 1987 Iroc Z28 Camaro with a 5.7 V8 TPI and a 700r4 Trans.

Last Thursday I drove my car with no problem, it was running great. Friday, I wanted to take it home, and it would not start. I thought it was the battery. So I got another battery. It still would not start. When I pump the gas pedal (I know I should not do that) it does start but then it stops running. So tonight my buddy stopped in to help me listen while I turned the key to see if he could hear the fuel pump. We did hear the fuel pump run. It sounded kind of load. Next I turned the key to see if any gas would come out of the Schrader valve. Some gas did! The gas did not spray out!! I stopped because I just did not want to make a mess. I don’t have a pressure gauge yet. I will be getting one this week. So next, I turned the key a couple of times and my friend said he could hear a hissing sound come from the area where the Schrader valve is and also around where the fuel regulator is. Could the diaphragm in the fuel regulator be bad? Why I say that is because I think this car was sitting for some time. I bought the car in January 2010!! I have done a lot of work to it already! The next step I will do is test the fuel pump. The Haynes repair manual says it should supply ½ pint or more in 15 seconds. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


Thanks
Pat

 

Post your fuel pressure when you get a chance to check it. The gurus on here will be able to better assist you with that little tidbit of info.

 

To check for a ruptured regulator diaphram, remove the vacuum hose from the regulator and look for fuel coming out of the vac port of the regulator when the pump runs.

 

As follows is some info from 87 Camaro Iroc Z28 w/ 5.7 V8. My camaro will not start. The battery is new. There is 12 volts going to the starter and the alternator. What I think it could be is the ignition module. The distributor and the rotor are brand new.

Fuel pressure - 40 psi No Leaks!

Voltage with Ignition on!

Fuel Pump at the connector (near the gas tank) - 8.5 Volts.

Coil Wire to Distributor Cap – 5.50 Volts.

Gray Plug to Coil – 11.75 Volts.

Fuel Pump Relay plug – 12.5 Volts.

Any help would be great.

Please let me know what else I should check.

 

Some of your data is confusing. Do you have spark? Check spark at more than one plug wire. Then check spark at the coil wire. If no spark, use a 12v test light to check for pulse(light should blink when cranking engine) at the tach wire(white wire from gray connector at coil, test with inline tach connector unplugged). Note: if car starts and runs with tach unplugged but not with it plugged in, tach buffer module is shorted internally and you'll need to replace it.

If no pulse, repeat test with 4 wire plug out of distrbutor. If you get spark with the 4 wire plug out, you have a short in the harness from the dist to the ECM. It can be in any of the wires. But most likely in the ppl/wht wire or the tan/wht wire. If still no pulse with 4 wire plug out, try a different coil, or try jumping the large pink wire in the gray coil connector directly to the small pink wire in the black coil connector without touching the test lead to the white whire, with the coil disconnected. In this mode, check for pulse on the white wire from the dist while cranking. if you get pulse with the coil out of the circuit, replace the coil.

If no pulse in any of these tests, recheck your tests and wiring. Carefully check ignition module grounding in the dist. Test pick up coil for resistance, should be 800-1000ohms. If all tests good, remove ignition module and take for testing. Plan on replacing it. If the dist looks crusty inside, replace the dist with a quality reman or new unit.

Oh and check your injector fuses in the interior fuse panel.