hi guys ,
I have 1987 firefird tpi 305 .
first i had a bad fuel pump i replaces it now i have 43 psi then 39 @ the rail wile cranking. when i crank the motor it fires on the cold start valve but then acts like it has no fuel then stalls out. i have changed the distributor module ,and knock censor . I have a noid and i have spark and a noid pulse wile it is stalling. does anyone have any suggestions.
thanks in advanced
john

 

Did you ohm test the injectors? Also leave the fuel pressure gauge connected and after you crank and the car shuts off does the pressure on the gauge go right to zero?

 

it holds at 30 or so psi I will ohm test what should it be?

 

i have 15.9 to 16.1 ohm's ar all injectors .thanks for you help anything else?

 

I got the motor to run and idle but that is it .if i give it a little gas it dies . the only way it will start and run is if i unplug the maf . if i plug it back in wile it is running it stalls.i still cant give it any gas or it dies. i also put in a tps and it didnt make any difference . Is there a way to test this? or was that the test?
thanks john

 

If you unplug the maf, the computer does a 'default', to my knowledge. It will run like crap if you drove it but it will idle alright. Sounds like you need a maf to me. I used to have starting/idling problems, and it would die for me if I gassed it at all. Try that MAF, man.

 

now, this is the way it should be, a knowlegable member helping out. Watch out, there is a moderator out here that will lock this when he sees it.

 

I think unplugging the MAF puts it in "limp home" mode, right? Im also thinking MAF.

 

I would love to know for sure. I can see the little wires inside the maf they all look intact.This had been a motor swap and it was so posed to be a running motor ,one fuel pump later and distributor module later it is running but its just not there yet. I have a wire diagram i am going to chase out in the am . thanks guys who go out of there way to help . In the past even on open loop (limp mode) it should get w.o.t this thing just cuts out like i pulled the coil wire .

 

Sounds like injectors are good. I leaning toward the MAF also. Is it throwing any codes?

 

try a maf cleaner first and notice any diference,after you do this if no changes,disconect maf sensor and if condition is corected replace sensor,check for loose or damaged air duct between maf and throtle body,tps adjustment,iac valve,notice any codes 33&34.

 

Well a new maf was installed today and it started. ran a little ruff but it got better. Then I turned it off tried to restart now it wont start . I will see when cold .

 

O2 sensor maybe? IAC, since you said it quits when you push the gas?

 

I have had many cars with a bad o2 sensor always been able to drive them. I also replaced the IAC today it still would not start still no difference.
after I replaced the MAF it started and ran very good i thought it was all set . till i tried a hot restart all it would do is crank. back to step one. the strange thing was i had the o2 disconnected it never set a code.
I am thinking the ICM again. did it the other night but it was a used one.

 

after all this i have changed MAF,knock sensor,TPS,IAC,swapped ecms
I have tested out the maf relay, burn relays and maf step by step.
what is left sensor on the bottem of the intake , and 2 coolant sensors. and oxygen sensor.

 

next to coolant temp sensor to the left is the cold start switch,have you tryed to adjust the tps sensor,vacuum leaks.

 

I hope after replacing the MAF you disconnected the battery?

 

i have set the tps at .55 and there is no vac leaks.
update i have it running but it is real fat( Rich) at first i didnt have the oxygen sensor hooked up but then i installed one in the header collector. But in made no difference can anyone tell me if i have to have two oxygen sensors? i see a wire near the knock sensor but i dont know where it goes .

 

yes i did

 

Only one O2 sensor.

 

thanks

 

Canister purge check for fuel saturation,leaking injector,fuel contaminated,ignition system.