With your goals any fuel pump will work. I'd go walbro though.

Thanks! Yes, it's my 87 Iroc. Got a build thread on her too!

 

ive read it well really looked at the pics and read a little she is amazing curious wats the gas mileage? and my build would go by quicker if i quit looing bolts

 

I'm trying to point out that the balancer and timing cover aren't the same and It will be a pain to time it unless you mark your TBI balancer for that TPI cover.

I'm not worried about the water pump fitting or not, I'm just trying to save you some headach, a thread about why the headers are glowing red/ why is my car detonating and some extra teardown work down the road.

Just mark the balancer's new "0" with timing tape or whatever while the pump is off

 

thanks man i under stand now and tes i did this with a flat head going to install the the rest of the serpitine system tomorrow even though i need thre bolts for the harmonic balancer pulley

 

id go with the walbro too and get a afpr

 

thanks for the two cents and its a used one and im always iffy with used parts so just in case it doesnt work i wanna have a plan b i was thinking for cheap go to auto zone for another pump but then again if i ever go bigger with cubic inches i might need something beefier so for now i hope this walbro will work

also i got some parts in from jegs!

firstr time buying from them and greatness!!!

got spark plug wires (wich im returning) and the k-n air filter rc-5000

with this got a free hat and stickers!!! awesome!!!

didnt get much done today waiting for more parts

Any one have a tpi tv cable for a 87?--------------------------

try to put on the power steering pulley every time i tightin the tool would pop out?? strange

put the radiotor in and air filter to see wat it look like been while since she had any on so not much done waiting for more parts

pic in next post

mean while the two vacum "port" on the throttle body needed?

also vacum "port" on intake and back of plenum? im using the one on the intake beside the ninth injector for the brake booster but wat about the one on the back of the plenum?

thanks

 

the vacuum fittings on the left side one is for the fuel pressure regulator the other will go to your map sensor. do not use a t for either of these vacuum signals.

 

i thought those on the back on the pass side are for the map and fpr but the one on the front pass side theres three i know one connects to the hose from the radiator to the bypass (i think its wat its called) where one conects to the throttle body and the other connects to the fire wall that is the bottom one wat about the two above them

ill have to take pics to explain better

 

the tb the large one on the rh side is a crank case vent hose the smaller tube is for the evap canister and the one underneath goes to the egr solenoid. if you are not using these plug the with a vacuum hose. The iac plate uses coolant to pass through it to warm incoming air. and goes from the intake manifold back too the heater core. I would bypass this.

 

i was thinking of doing this thanks but then i was wondering about the iat sensor if i block this off and nothng warms the air would this mess with the iac sensor causing confusion in he ecm if so i geuss tuneing will help that

and was wondering about exhaust have these off brand flowsounds with 2.5 wondering is it cheaper to go and by the pipes and make my exhaust myself figure that out later

thinking of going with magna flows sounds good on m buddys lsx hopefully should sound decent on a tpi although he told me the sond between a sbc and lsx with magnaflows were tottally different either magnaflows or flow masters 40 series or something

going to be alot of mone spent untill i find the right sound

 

some picture updates with the new k-n filter




also


just seeing how much room i would have if installed it now or not here ya go noticed a slight lean geussing this is normal




more to come later gotta figure out this power steering pump pulley problem and wait for parts

 

I may have missed this in reading your thread, but you stated you are installing an '87 TPI, which is MAF controlled. If you have not converted to SD ( Speed Density) then that Air Cleaner will not work. You will need the MAF Sensor mounted in front of the TB.

Also, the Accumulator on your AC will have to be changed when you get around to getting your AC to work. Once they have been opened up to atmosphere, they take on water.

 

yeah its speed density i used the one from the old tbi to throw on there u can see it hang loose in the pic above imm going to bolt it to the frame

i was gonna use maf but the maf broke. . .
and i have shop towels in the lines to plug them off once i got it from pullapart wich was still installed i threw it on the weird thing is the bolt on top of the line

 

lookin good love that air cleaner setup

 

Thanks man! summit or jegs part number is rc-5000 also they chave braided tpi throttle cables and chrome tv cable but both expensive will call for a good look setup though!!

close chilln with my lady so no work today even though it fills good

maybe i should kick her to the side and work on the bird lol

 

No it will not.

Also, the IAC is not a sensor.

 

The one on the driver-side rear of the plenum is for the brake booster.
The port on the driver-side near the cold-start injector is for the PCV valve.

 

So, you physically confirmed the exact TDC postion (with the driver-side cylinder head off) and marked your damper to match the 0* mark on your timing tab?
That is the best way, though you can get close to exact TDC with the head on and using a piston-stop and degree wheel.

From your reply it's very hard to assume or think that you have done this.
That's why I ask.

 

hows it not a sensor? And iat it reads the temp of the air going through the plenum so how is that not a sensor just wo dering

thanks for the rest of the info

im geussing the two on the pass sides for the emessions and wat not

no i did not im going to need a degree wheel and this piston stop as well

to get exact top deAD or close to it im learning as i go and in this buiil i feel like there was some research i left out before the build

i hav e to reset my lash an ways so i will do this then thanks man!

 

IAC (what I said) = Idle Air Control. It is a stepper motor, not a sensor.

You would have a MAT (Manifold Air Temp) sensor, not an IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor.

The coolant passage in the throttle Body is NOT to heat up the incoming air. It is to warm up the aluminum around the IAC valve and the throttle blades to keep them from icing up in cold conditions.

The incoming air picks up some of this heat of course, but very little, and not enough to effect what your MAT sees in the plenum.

Being all aluminum, the entire TPI structure sinks tons of heat from the engine, and that is the primary source for heating the incoming air.
Just bypassing the throttle-body coolant does not change this fact.

 

today before work i have gotten a lil bit of stuff done. Mainly to have access to my fuel tank cut the hangers for the muffler took down the heat shield and cut off the y pipe along with the air tube . so when my fuel hose comes in the mail i can drop the tank and test my walbro and bolt her up reset my lash then i should be finish! ofcourse pics soon!

 

have you heard of cutting a hole in the hatch some guys dont like to cut up there cars but makes it really easy if you have problems to change your pump out without droppin the rear end.

 

i heard of it and thought of makin a little "hatch door" for it for easy access to the gas tank
but the danger of hackin it for me is to much of a risk.

and also donto you have to reroute the fuel lines?

 

jus have to cut the lines and get some rubber fuel lines from autozone to reconnect i used a lil electric dremel had no issues

 

[IMG][/IMG]

 

does not look that bad!!

no fuel smells and did u make a "trap door"
so to speak.

i would do this but lol everything's dropped from my rear end already.

 

yea got a piece of stainless steel and a good adhesive put some small self tappers thru it called it good. wats left for you to do before you try startin her up?

 

re set the lash
figure power steering pulley issue
put pulley on followed by belt then radiator

then drop the tank insert the fuel pump (have to get some hose clamps)

put rear back together

not to much at all

and then after this work towards my new 3.42 posi with disk brakes

aluminum shaft new bushings cut the springs and maybe new shocks.

 

sounds good goin to have to get a video up when you get it done.

 

Will do its going to be a good video its going to start with the old motor exhaust then the new motor then later when im done with the other the other mods like rear end lowerng and my rims that i have alreADY going to be a part two im excited

already making plans for my next motor!

 

wat exhaust are you plannin on runnin

 

to be honest i have not decided .. .

i have these local shop mufflers flow sounds. . .

drone imo

1. magnaflow
2.cherry bombs
3.flowmasters
4.hookers. ..

I just can't decide to save my life.

for now to save money im putting the flowsounds back on . . .

 

i had the flowmaster 40 series jus too loud now i got magnaflow its really quiet cant really hear it all.... my buddy has a dynomax bullet i think sounds great but he doesn care for it too much. did you ever find the spec on the cam?

 

dynomax ultraflo actually not the bullet. But close. I liked it until I put these heads on then I got too much flow for it I think. Dabird used to post in the TBI section a lot. Ive shared a lot of info with him. I also did the fuel pump door as 86firebirdta posted. Dabird almost bought my perfectly good fuel pump but passed. I skimmed through your build. Pretty mild but I like it. Anxious to see #'s and hear it run also.

 

i hear dynomax does has the best flo im going to have to look for some videos to hear it on a 305.


theres someone i havent spoke to in a while!
undercover has shared alot of info with me in the past about my old tbi done reseaqrch and all i thankyo for that!
and to all who has help.
and do you still have that walbro just incase mine doesnt work i might need it

and the cam specs
is 450/420 with 1.5

i believe is the specs

 

na he sold it his car cant handle tpi parts lol

 

dang i dont have afpr on it its stock but still putting the walbro in
.
Got the clamps for the fuel hose and caps for vacum lines and heater hose lines just gotta by two that actaully fit some of the caps.

and bought a breather for the valve covers from autozone but it looks well stupid its to tiny.


so tommorow im starting with dropping the tank and throwing the tank up!
then hopefully reset lash and figure the power sterin pulley deal.

then wait for the flexible dipstick from gasket only 51 bucks shipped from summit!

Still gotta find a tv cable been asking around but no luck.

after all this i will be done with stage one of the build drive her around and break her in then time for stage two!

 

i got a bbk regulator if your interested in it

 

you welcome i do try and be as useful as i can. but the pump got sold, sorry.

very correct. tpi parts dont work right

that did end up being good after all huh?

 

i really need a tv cable more then anything!

been searching but no luck well the new pump is in!!!

and holy crap wat a fun job. . .

bad thing is going to have to drop it again to get the right clamps in cuz autozone gave me the wrong one. . .

also bought a mr gasket flexible dipstick and it did not fit. . . says it does from summit and i wanna keep this baby cuz she a beauty

so gotta reset my lash and wait for someone to send a peice of the harness

 

yea its fine i jus switched to that holly regulator jus buy a new diaphragm be all good jus let me kno if you want it and its yours.

 

will i need it with the walbro?

 

i had stock fuel pump my first mod was 1.6 roller tipped rockers and would throw o2 runnin too lean slapped on the afpr bumped up the fuel psi no more code.

 

Must have been a very weak pump. The EP241 Flow= 40 gph & PSI = 65-75

 

i had that pump in there for a long time and jus recently changed it out would always give me the psi and held idk was weird.

 

hello to all heres some pics of me dropping the gas tank!



i had to dropp the rear that low cars only thirteen inches off the ground not to bad!1

then took of the strainer with a flat head and a rubber mallet put her upside down and install my walbro



heres what went in!



now i slid the gas tank in and out through the driver side it was easier for me.

now when installing open the gas door on the car to see light.
this well help u in guiding the tank in now twist turn and shove her in there.
Some would say to get some one to guide you but i would push and twist and pull from the pass side and occasionly get up and look through the gas door (my terms lol) to help u see wats in ure way. really is not that hard. then bolt everything up and ure done.



pic with gas door open and "the light" to guide me.

now even though i already dropped the gas tank twice im dropping it a third time just to check everything! (call me crazy rather be safe then a complete idiot)

All that is left is spark plugs and to install my water pump and she will crank!

 

sweet cant wait to hear that you got it started

 

so you installed the walbro or airtex junk??!!?

 

i installed the walbro and used there strainer

not much is left just gotta mek the spark plug wires and she will crank very loudly cuz it will be straight headers!

serpitine belts on fuel tanks up only thing holding me up is im not at home hahahha

 

havent posted everything was together but i have to chase bugs i have a fuel issue no power to pump. research i did comes to the oil/fuel switch.

also my regulator started leaking due to orings so now looking for o rings !!

close to getting her started