I think project89 is referring to something like the Mustang 90mm single TB. There are also 4 barrel throttle bodies available that blt up to the Victor Jr.. For that matter, a Miniram can be ported to support the 230cc heads as well. I'm not that impressed with the flow numbers of those heads. According to the article, they flow 272cfm at .600. My ported 195 trick flows flow 270 at .600 and have a much better, high velocity, port design. By comparison, the AFR 210 eliminators flow 295 at .600 and continue to increase flow to .700, where they flow 301cfm.

 

The darts out the box arent that impressive. However like most heads they clean up well with some port work in the right areas for the given application

 

Good point. The AFR Eliminators come CNC ported. Not really a fair comparison.

 

yeah i was they make the tb;s in like 70-100 mm and they are cheap, doing the setup that way is alot cheaper thren buying a 4bbl throttle body

its gota even be alot cheaper then doing a miniram setup as well

 

Afr's are fully cnc'd and work well for most part out the box. More serious applications however can make more with porting the right areas of the ports on afr's too. Alot of guys use 227-235 heads on 406 and 427 engines for mid higher 6000 rpm ranges. They are alot of head for anything smaller. But even slight port cleanup to make flow more stabile at higher lifts will pick up good hp numbers over out the box shape.
Using heads this large for a low rpm 350 is just a waste of potential and time and money imo. Things can be made to work out ok but its bandaiding the issue of too large a head. Now 190-210 cc stuff isnt all that huge for a good 350, as it really depends on the csa of the port and velocities in the port. If its fast it will work better at low rpms for the most part

 

Still looking at 800 dollors from what i seen on ebay.That sound right?what year.size motor can i get tb off of?

 

Ok i been looking stuff up.On the vic jr.do i need new fuel rails?What Sensor changes are made from chevy tb to ford?

 

orr89 actually runs one of those setups , im sure he can tell u alot more info about the correct stuff then i can
as far as i know u just change the pigtails for the tps on the ford tb

 

I run a GM LS throttle body and the IAC and TPS sensors are direct swaps with thirdgen wiring, just splice them in color matched and all if you buy the GM pigtails.

Not familar with Ford TB's. Alot of elbows are available with GM LS patterns so it makes sense to do that but they still 300-400 bucks for a TB. Factory take off's may be cheaper.

Now I think GM truck TB's come in 90mm but most may be drive by wire, but I recall one being cable driven. Harder to find I think. That could be an option but its a different bolt pattern I think? Again not 100% sure.

Victor E EFI + rails is 415 bucks. Then you need fuel line/fittings, and regulator. 100-150 for regulator, 100 in fittings and small cross over line and then you need likely another 100 in lines/fittings to adapt hardline fuel lines on body to the victor rails. Elbow can be 100-250 bucks and TB 50-400 bucks depending what you get

So its cheaper than miniram when done right and almost same/similar to the holley stealth ram if you are considering total swap cost and aftermarket TB's. But a stock TPI 48mm twin TB flows enough to support some good power. Same with stock 78mm LS1/LS6 throttle bodys.

 

Seams like the first tpi is the way to go then.Was hoping the efi would be alot cheap.no such luck.Thanks for all the info peopleAnymore info is allwas welcome!!Thank all Jason....http://www.facebook.com/ThisWeekInCamaro

 

well it dosent have to be a victor efi manifold,shop around a bit theres atong of mainfolds out there like that that are cheaper.

there is also the ebay manifolds for 120 bucks which are basically copies, i had a thread on here asking about them in the racing section i belive and the feedback on the was pretty good, i eventually just decided to stick with my stock ported tpi on my turbo build .

eventually if i ever go with votec heads i will go with the single plane efi manifold

 

hjere ya go

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-Hi...6cd16c&vxp=mtr
+
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-38...420f1c&vxp=mtr
grab a used lsx throttle body and a 100$ fuel rail kit

+ the other lil odd and ends u need like a regulator and the adapter fittings to screw stainless an line into the stock fuel lines to the fuel rails

 

I looked on ebay did not see anything,that cheap.I look again.

 

Didnt catch what cam you are going to run wiht the first.
Perhaps with a short duration higher lift with a little overlap you may be able to make it liveable for awhile. If you dont think its going to seal then stop now.

 

600 lift

 

Thanks man!!!!

 

Ya ,am going to go with this.a ton cheaper

 

I guess 1800 and 2083 arent to much apart.

 

PN?

 

Pn as in?

 

Part number?

 

dont know i mesured it.Bought car and nothing seamed to be right ,So i took it down to a short block.
9.1 pistons,600 lift cam, new bottom end.Dart 230 heads.(Efi intake 90mm tb.< Still looking to buy).
Injectors 30lbs i belive have look at my receipt box.

 

Sounds like a mismatch combo for sure. Lift number alone dont mean much but thats a HIGH lift cam for a hydr roller if it is one. Its likely to have alot of duration to get there unless its some sort of high lift xe lobe but still would likley be in the 224 deg range to have a shot at touching .600" with a 1.6 rocker. Or does it have 1.65-1.7 rockers?

Or it may be a solid roller with a 1.5-1.6 rocker. Much more likely but still may have alot of duration for TPI and low comp 350" motor.

I dont think I ever seen a flat tappet cam that big.

I just dont see this working out well for you.

 

I have not bought the rockers yet.And have to mesure the rod lenth.But going with the vic jr efi 90mm tb.It ran ok ,for a little while.Over heated.but heads or rod lenth was fked up.Head valves where bent.If it runs like a dog.I will build or buy a 383 or 406.How do i tell the difference between soild or hydr.It a roller cam.

 

Look at the lifters and check for a cam part number

 

usually on the very front of the cam is a part #. In rare cases on the rear.

 

Ok i will.Was told that i mesured it wrong.Not a 600 lift.I am going with this intak e now.Edelbrock 71353 - Edelbrock Pro-Flo XT EFI.Was told much better with them heads!

 

Proflo is a good intake but not sure if it can be ported to 1206 very well. I think those heads are 1206 and not a 1207

 

I looked at lifters,no numbers.
was told to mesure the lift, then the rod lenth.then do some math to get the right numbers.http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/71373/10002/-1 but this is intake iam going to go with now.

 

If getting to the cam is handy a GOOD motor build type shop will have whats called a cam profiler (or cam dr).

They set the cam in it, the machine very slowly rotates the cam over and records all measurements.

They will print out every spec of that cam on paper so you know exactly what you got. You may have something that works real well..or be relieved you didnt put the wrong cam in. 100% worth spending a few bux to find out.

 

Ya..I guess i pull the cover off.I am not getting intake to next week anyhow.

 

Bought this intake http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/71373/10002/-1


Is the a stock tb that bolt up to this or will i have to spend another 300+ on a tb?Must be 90 mm