89 305 TPI 5 speed. fresh fuel pump. cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, maf, iac, injectors, tps is adjusted correctly, car is in time, firing order is correct. just dropped in a distributor that is known good, its dead on, not a tooth off.

car starts, idles like **** for about 10 seconds, then dies, or starts, idles like a dream for about 45 seconds, then hard stalls. im at the end of my rope. gimme some idea. no codes get stored. its like the car is begging for a carb.

 

Fuel pressure staying on spec? Sometimes the ignition module will heat up and kill the engine, test free at parts stores these days. I'd suspect fuel problems first though. Might run some gas from the fuel line in a jar and look for water in the gas, never know.

 

it has a brand new pump, 45 psi all day every day. when it runs, it dumps fuel, but the coolant temp sensor and 02 sensor are new as well. tired a 2nd ignition control module, same deal, they dont even have the chance to heat up.

i already have a nice hei and edlebrock 600 carb sitting on my bench...all i need is a FPR and intake manifold

 

If you unplug the maf does it stay running?

 

Does the security light stay on?

 

well, the whole tpi setup is out of the car and onb the floor. if anyone wants a nice tpi setup, pm me, ill give you a good deal on it

 

It really sounds like you have covered all the heat related issues except the ECM. I would hate to see a tpi go bye the way side

 

Had a simlar problem and it ended up being the ignition module that was bad on a less then year old distrutor. Would start fine run 20 - 30 seconds and die. Stabbed a new distrutor in it and she ran fine. I also had no trouble codes and a lot of new parts.

 

i would rather have a car i can tune with a screwdriver that costs 69 cents than one that i have to either pay someone to tune, or spend hundreds of dollars on the equipment to burn chips. plus i like my engines to rev, and tpi doesnt like to rev much more than about 5500 rpm...i want about 6500 rpm

 

why would you spin a stock lb9 over 5k anyways ?

 

mine has the l98 cam in it, itll spin to 5500 all day. its getting a bigger cam soon, i just need to make it run to drive it to my friends place to pull my engine and replace the cam and my oil pan with the stripped out plug. possibly even do the heads if i come across some 1.94 valves for free.

 

Did the running issue arrise after the cam swap ?

 

especially for a flintstone tech carb !

 

no cam swap, in 89 all lb9's with a 5 speed got the l98 cam.
are you gonna be the one to pay my dyno time and to have a new chip burned every time i decided to change something? what about the towing bills when some shitty sensor goes bad? if carbs are such ****, you wouldnt see people still buying em new. tpi sucks, cant rev it high, runners are expensive, cant do a cam swap without spending large amounts of money getting it tuned afterwards...if i wanted to keep it fuel injected it would be getting an lt1 swap with an odb 2 ecu so you can just flash hte ecu and be on you way.