I think I've read about every post on here about MAF sensors and code 33. They have been very helpful in pointing me in the right direction. That being said I still need help. I have used the flow chart and by those tests I have a bad MAF. I Tried 3 different MAF(2 from AutoZone and 1 from Advanced Auto) and the code still wont go away. I saw some info on here about certain MAF not working with certain years and that the Bosch MAF are the way to go but I cant seem to find a new one. Any one have a suggestion on a good MAF? Also I did get desperate and replaced the MAF relays as a shot in the dark and still nothing. My TPS is set at .54 volts and I'm lost at this point. I would appreciate any help to finally get rid of this damn code. Thanks in advance

 

Check the wiring, end to end.

 

hello , maybe you have read my rants on POS MAF sensors. i can tell you this , you are NOT going to get a good one from auto zone or advance . what you DO need is a RICH - PORTER new one . but they are $375 or so. but well worth the price . stay away from cardone and airtex junk. you CAN make a MAF car run right . but it takes serious commitment to do so

 

Wiring, you have tried several sensors already which strongly indicates the wires.

 

I cannot agree more. I have a Rich Porter MAF. It is an improved design from the original. Very well made product. But also check your wiring before replacing the MAF again. You will need a circuit diagram which you should be able to get at chevythunder.com if you don't already have a shop manual. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the replies I do appreciate it. I did check the wiring using the flowchart many recommended on here and all things pointed towards the maf. I have also bought and soldered in a new maf connector I bought from tpiparts.net. I was thinking possible bad connection to the maf. It wont trip the code until I drive it then it trips a 33 and 36. My newest maf has the circuit board inside and not the thin wire. I read the new 36 code could be because of the circuit board and it not being able to do the burn off? Does that seem right? it seems to be fine at idle . I will look into a rich porter MAF also.

 

it is possible to make a MAF car run . you have to stay away from suspect chinese parts (cardone , airtex ) you will like your new R P mass air flow meter . they are the one that just works

 

Is there a website you like to order the rich porter from??

 

I have a question on the Rich Porter MAF. Is it from Spectra? I found their website with the MA-157 MAF but haven't been able to find where to buy one. Can you point me in the right direction

 

The Rich Porter MAF, which I have, has the circuit board inside instead of the thin wire. I doubt if that is the reason for your trouble codes. I do not think the burnoff function provides a feed back to the ecm to determine if it is working, it is just a timed function. I did eventually get a code 45, high MAF reading, but that is more of a tuning issue which I fixed by editing the bin and burning a new chip.

Another member recently reported that Spectra bought Rich Porter.

 

Just for your info, vacuum leaks can cause a code 33 also. Throttle body shaft, all intake gaskets, runner bolts (2 under plenum).