wruiz

Need some advice. I have a 350SBC stock block and heads, short headers. I have a HSR ready for installation. I was thinking on replacing the cam and heads. I was wondering if a set-up with the following specs would bring close to 400HP.


Cam
Hydraulic roller
Intake- 220
Exhaust- 224
Int lift- .528
Int exh- .536
LSA- 112


Heads
Chamber-64cc
Intake runner size- 195
intake- 2.02
Exhaust- 1.60


Or, if there is a COMP/Edelbrock combo that would bring close to 400HP that can "fit" my HSR please let me know. Thanks in advance.

midias

What exact heads are you looking at. The specs you listed for the heads are 50% of the equation for what they would actually do.

wruiz

Thanks for the quick response. To be honest. I found those specs on a 350SBC crate set-up I found online. Obviously, my knowledge on the subject is limited. LOL! I just want to keep my block and HSR intake and increase hp by replacing cam and heads. What would you recommend? I don't mind a mild idle.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Budget? Bout the cheapest alum you can get are dart shp stuff or the flowtek heads from speier racing heads

195 head is good size. That cam will do 400 crank easily. If you want 400 at the tire its gonna need alot more

midias

What is your budget for heads?


The comp XFI series is one of my favorites for what you are doing
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ode=RLERCAMXFI

wruiz

I wanted to keep it below $1000 but that seems to be unreal. I'd say $1500-1800 for the heads. Cam, I'd say $300-450.

midias

For that kind of money AFR 195 heads can be bought and you will not be disappointed

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Talk to this guy
http://speierracingheads.com/flotek-street-heads.html

1195$ best bang for buck imo. I think Import casting but quality valves/springs/machining etc

wruiz

Ok, so, in order to achieve close to 400hp I would need 195, or maybe more?
How about chamber, valve lift? Again, my knowledge is limited. As far as chamber, is more better? Would a COMP 280XFFI work well with a 195cc or 200cc head?


Saw this Dart http://dartheads.com/dart-product/iron-eagle-23-200cc/. Would work with the 280XFI from COMP?


Just looking for a nice combo. Thanks all.

wruiz

Would any of these http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ode=RLERCAMXFI cams be a good match for the 200cc from Flotek?

midias

The dart heads would work well also looking at the flotek heads there is a big increase in flow between .5 and .6 lift so they would be able to take advantage of the larger lift of the XFI cams specifically the 280.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

No you can run a smaller head like a dart 180 or afr 180. They will do it. I just like most 195 heads with the hsr, gives room to rev abit and for future builds.

The key is making sure you have the right spring package and good components. Generally i like afr heads for their hyd roller spring packages. But you pay more for it. Back in the late 2000's you could get the heads for 1300$ or so. Now idk what they are, 1500-1600?

The 268 xfi cam will get you 330-350 whp most of the time with a afr 195 head. Thats over 400 flywheel hp. The 280xfi will get you much closer to 375-400 whp and is alot more aggressive sounding on a 350.

Like to see nearer 11:1 comp with the 280. 10:1 ish on the 268

irocman7

I am surprised nobody has brought up Promaxx heads, they are designed after the old Patriot brand heads, and have excellent flow, and a killer casting for an excellent price.

The 200cc heads flow 280 cfm and can be had for under $1000 bucks. Best bang for buck there is out there. Of course everybody would love to have a set of AFR's but there are other options.


https://www.summitracing.com/tx/part...9200/overview/

wruiz

This is good info! Thanks!!!

wruiz

I think I have all the info I need. I appreciate everybody's comments/replies. Just have one more question, what's the specs of a stock TPI head?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

I love my AFR 195cc heads on my TransAm. I have an LT1, but performance wise the SBC vs LT1 is near identical. 231/239 on a 110. Cam is too much for daily driving. Its steerable, but if you get caught in a traffic jam you might want to blow your brains out due to working the clutch.

wruiz

Thanks everybody for your input. I decided to go with thefollowing the CC XFI268 and the 195 (or 200cc) head. As far as the torqueconverter, I assume the stock converter would not work well with the 268 cam.According to CC, the RPM range for the 268 is 1800 to 5800. My understanding,and please correct me if I'm wrong, the TC stall speed should be 500 RPM above.A friend of mine has a TC with a 2100-2200 stall speed. Would this TC work wellwith the 268 cam? Thanks.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

A 218/224 on 113° cam like the XFI268 in a 350 should have driving characteristics very similar to a stock cam in terms of around town manners. There will be some chop, but most of it audible rather than what its like with a big cam car where you lose torque down near the idle range. The Cam in my LT1 recommends 2200-6800rpm, but in reality while yes it works around 2200rpm and makes enough power to keep the car driving at highways speeds, its by no means peppy down there. Sometimes I think about pulling the cam for a smaller grind, but then I hear it idle, and I actually get it above 3500rpm and I forget about that.

You'll like the tone. The XFI268 will also carry the power much further on the top end than a OEM type cam too, so you'll like that too.

You don't need anything wild. A 9.5" around 2600-3000 would be great.

wruiz

Thanks for the reply. "Town manners", that's what I want. Lets see what other have to say.

wruiz

Thirdgen89GTA and others

Pardon my ignorance, when buying a TC, what should I look for? Stall speed, flash stall rating, RPM range, etc.?


You said a 2600-3000 would work. Is that a 2600, 2800, or 3000 TC? Or, a TC with a range of 2600 to 3000? Or a TC with a flash stall rating of 2600 to 3000? As you can see my knowledge on TC is very limited.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Some might disagree here but to me Its only important if you race, for the most part....you need some higher stall speed just because with a cam, it usually is bigger than stock so it will idle higher than stock and by doing so will make alittle bit more power than stock at idle areas. When this happens the car will want to move on its own while in gear much harder/faster than it would stock. You need higher stall speed to allow engine to "free rev" some while in gear. Makes car easier to drive and you are not working the brakes hard whenever you put car in gear. Higher stall softens the off idle driving so car behaves alittle bit better. It doesn't jump or buck when put in gear from park or neutral.
Kinda hard to explain unless you experienced it.

Had a friends medium cammed ls1 setup on stock converter, damn thing would idle its way to 20 mph when put in drive and left alone to idle haha it was crazy

If car idles low enough then it can be fine on stock converter when put in gear. Had a 280 xfi cammed car drive fine on stock converter


The main importance of stall speed is to put car in the operating range of engine for fastest acceleration. You want it somewhere around 500 ish rpm below peak torque rpm give or take a few hundred. Cam and heads, the bigger they get the higher the torque curve moves. You need to add more and more stall speed. For a track car leaving near peak torque gives best 60 foot launches. On the street, when you go wide open throttle from a slow cruise speed, the converter flashes to stall and if thats peak torque rpm, then it will accelerate the hardest. It feels best this way.

But if you arent concerned with that then just add abit more stall speed over stock. It will retain somewhat stock like driving feel. It will feel slightly weak off idle during hard acceleration just like any stock automatic stock converter car would but will drive fine. Advantage here is you get less slip when leaving from a stop so less rpm rise which usually means better gas mileage.

You gotta find out what you want car to do. Any mild sbc usually will want more stall than stock to be more fun. Stockish tpi cars i always went 2600-2800. Great street strip converter for short rpm ranges. Stealth ram or other intakes revving to 5500-6500 or more can tolerate more, 3000-3600 stall.
Your combo making peak torque around 4000 would love a 3400-3600 for the track. Street i would stay 2800-3000 if it was mine. But anything 2000-2400 would work at a minimum imo

Driving a stalled car is a different feeling all together and does take getting used to

wruiz

Thanks Orr89 and TG89 for the replies,


I'll be looking for a 2600/2800-3000 TC. It should be a TC with lock-up, correct? Thanks again.

wruiz

midias

If you have a factory roller block you can use the factory style roller lifters and equipment. If you are doing a roller conversion you need the linked roller lifters.

Chad Speier

iTrader: (1)

If I had the energy I would take the ported 113 heads off and put a set of my CNC heads on my engine.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Good to see you still around on the site Chad. Your work on the Assault Racing heads is why I am running a set of them now on my 350.