Hello all, I have an 85 IROC with the 305 TPI. the fuel lines that run between the fuel rail and the rubber hoses on the driver side that lead to the back of the car are badly corroded, and difficult to find aftermarket. I was able to find some on eBay, but they are looking corroded as well. I was curious if anyone made their own fuel lines, and what the process was like. Are the lines SAE or metric? Thanks!

 

I don't know if the lines are metric (Saginaw fitting) or SAE (double flare). But Inline Tube or Classic Tube likely carries new ones.

RBob.

 

I've made some using the steel lines and it was a total PIA. If I did it again I'd use something softer and easier to work with. Expect to waste alot tubing so buy extra!

 

Yes, the cupro-nickel stuff is what to use. Usually sold are brake line material. Double SAE flares are easy to make with an inexpensive flaring tool. Need special tools if a Saginaw end is required.

RBob.

 

Here are the lines for reference

 

 

I you contact the right stuff they can make the exactly like originals. You just send then originals they will copy and send new and old back. They do a nice job. I used them on my c20 truck.

 

Those are Saginaw (metric) fittings.

RBob.

 

I have a hydraulic flare tool from mastercool to make the Saginaw flares. Works great.

 

Thanks Tuned! Do you have a link to the tool? I see some of the kits are $400. I've also reached out to Hawk's to see if they can send me used lines from one of their salvage cars

 

You will have to search the kit you want. They have several kits available depending on what does you want.
Your better off buying a more complete die set. I got one with bubble flare, push connect, and Saginaw flare and bought an flare separately. Or can go basic

https://www.toolpan.com/Mastercool-7...05beb393911e49

 

I bought a cheaper harbor freight one. If using the 3/8 hole on steel line you'll need to reinforce the large hole at the end as the tool will flex and not provide enough clamping force to keep the pipe from slipping out. After welding on the support it worked excellent.

 

Thank you all for your replies. Since I am just concerned with getting the car running first, I decided for now that I won't get any line tools, and instead I ordered the lines used from Hawk's. I already got the lines, and they are in great shape. My next and hopefully last question is, where can I get the o-rings that are on the ends of the lines? The ones on my originals are not too shabby, but the ones on the used lines are pretty much shot. I'd like to only put this back together once, and be done with it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I'm hoping to put humpty dumpty back together and try to fire it up this weekend!

 

try
feed line 22514722
rtn line 22516256

 

Thanks Tuned, you're always so quick to answer questions and very helpful! I'll give an update here once I have it all reassembled and fired up!

 

I found some on Amazon, that supposedly are also fuel injector o-rings (I ordered them because they'll be here by Friday and I can always return them if they don't work) and I also found these: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Will the ones from advance work too? Those are right up the street, and I can work on the car tonight if those are what I need.

 

Those look correct, there listed for the correct size hardline at least.
if your doing injector o-rings look at amazon standard motor products sk24
its to do the complete fuel rail.

 

Ok, so I finally have a (partial) breakthrough. The car runs! I do have a few problems remaining, and I am not sure what order I should address them. I will list my current issues below. I know there are other posts dealing with some if not all of these issues, but a fresh perspective would be much appreciated.

1. The car won't start unless you give it a shot of starting fluid. I can hear the fuel pump run for the customary 2 seconds when I turn the key to the "on" position. However, then it just cranks and cranks until I have my dad shoot in a quick shot of starting fluid, and it fires right up.
2. Now that the car is started, there are two other problems
   1. First, the car is idling high, but seems to run pretty well otherwise. What should I check besides the Idle Air Control?
   2. Secondly, when I try to rev it, it kinda falls on the floor. If I slowly give it pedal, it will climb in RPMs. If I put the accelerator to the floor and hold it there, the car will die.

Here is some secondary information that may be helpful in diagnosing my current issues:

I have replaced just about everything in the fuel system, including the tank, pump, sending unit, filter, used fuel rail, and new injectors. Being an 85, I have deleted the cold start injector with a plate I got from Hawk's. The only think I can think of that I didn't replace was the fuel pressure regulator.

I put a paperclip in the terminals under the steering wheel, and got the following codes: 12 (expected), 22 and 33. 22 is low TPS voltage, 33 is something to do with the MAF (which is currently disconnected since I was using starting fluid to get it fired). CEL comes on after about 5 seconds of running.

For the TPS, I tried to jumper the middle wire and found only 0.02 volts at closed throttle, so I bought another one, which was only reading 0.05 volts at closed throttle...am I doing something wrong with the jumper wires? The technique I used to jumper the TPS was to run a short piece of wire into the connector and plug it in, then read the voltage on the wire coming out of the connector and grounded on an alternator bolt.

I did notice that my fuel pump relay connector was what I would describe as "melty", and looked like it had been "modified" by the PO. I have a new fuel pump relay connector on the way, but I have to think despite the condition that it was mostly working since the fuel pump does not prime now that I have removed the old fuel pump relay connector.

Any insights would be much appreciated!

Thanks to all on this forum for getting me to this point!

 

I have recently been through a similar process with a complete new fuel system and rebuilt engine. You should check fuel pressure at the rail and be sure that it's correct. The regulator could be bad, or even though you hear the pump, be sure that the power feed and ground are good back near the tank. For example, I had a terminal pin that backed out on the ground side of the new sending unit where it connects to the vehicle harness underneath. The manufacturer hadn't seated it in the connector body and it backed out, only making light contact. Pump would run, but pressure was intermittently low. So, verify power and ground under the car at that connector. If you drive it on the road and fuel pressure is low, you'll likely set a lean code and check engine light.
If fuel is good, set base timing - disconnect the reference line back on the right side by the back of the engine first.
The best way to check TPS is to buy some weatherpack pins and make up 3 jumper wires to get the connector fully separated. You need to connect to two of the three jumpers (terminal A and B). I have a set of these in my toolbox just for checking sensors. Be careful not to deform the pins in the connectors or you will likely have problems later. Deformed pins tend to get loose and cause intermittents that are hard to track down.
Get the MAF connected before you try to do any diagnosis. When it's unhooked, it's trying to run on a backup calibration that isn't very accurate.
Once you are sure TPS, MAF and fuel and timing are good, then high idle is often due to vacuum leaks. First thing to check is all of the vacuum hose connections. You can even pinch off the hoses and see if it changes speed.