88 L98, Vortech Blower, headers, tuned on EBL.

While tuning, I discovered the Bosch 3 22# injectors were being maxed out. Eventually I plan on stepping away from the FMU, but for now I plan on installing a set of injectors I can have better control over. Bigger pump to come later. Since I have to take the upper intake off to change the injectors I went ahead and got a set of AS&M runners and will be gasket matching the plenum, including clearing behind the throttle body.

Thinking since I am keeping the longer runner style, factory heads and am already running a 3.45 gear (9-Bolt), a 210/220 .500/.510 on 114 would be a nice compliment. Don't try to convinve me otherwise. I like the long runner TPI look, understand the limitations, and am content with this. My license plate frame says "In Torque We Trust" .

Here is the kit I found with these specs. I don't want to go too wild, I doubt this car will ever see the track. Just want respectable performance. I am planning a bigger build on my Corvette later for it to be the fast one. The IROC will eventually get a heavy stereo. Ideally, I would like to be in the 300-325WHP range or about 400HP at the crank. Just using some basic estimates the engine as it sits without the blower should be around 250hp (Headers, free flowing exhaust, no cat and a few other odds and ends), figuring each pound of safely tuned boost from a supercharger gives about 7%, my combo with 6PSIG should make around 350. Injector calculations match this estimate as well as 22# @ 50PSI should handle 350hp and I am roughly seeing this in my logs. Would this Cam and AS&M runners get me that extra 50hp I am looking for? Looks like if I go this route I will need at least 30 lbs injectors and stay in the 45-50PSI range.

Couple of options... why not just up the boost and get the power? 10 psi should be pretty darn close to that hp target if the blower is big enough. Definitely go asm runner to help it breath up top. May need better intercooling or bit better fuel. But it should take. I honestly Felt my 305 on 8-9 psi was sitting 280’s whp but it was turbocharged. A 350 even with blower loss should be more than that on 10-12 psi

there could be a chance the cam lowers boost since the engine is now flowing more air. So you may make similar power as before just on less boost. May have to pulley up anyway. But the cam should help make more after all that than just blower alone.

i like the cam, mild enough. Could try to grab a zz4 cam since it’s similar and can find them used from time to time.

the 1.43 springs may not fit the head pockets, im not sure. Unless you plan on getting them machined for screw in studs and cut the pockets out while you are there, you could find a smaller diameter spring to work with the heads and a mild cam. There are cheap ls dual springs that are 1.27-1.29” diameter which is near stock size. Just need a retainer for the sbc stem. Manley made a good drop in single spring with good pressures for mild cams

idk what lifters they use but i rather have gm ls lifters or equivalent. But they may be harder to find these days, shortage of parts i think

Never buy a complete kit like that. The pushrods wont be the right length, the timing set is cheapo junk that's not finely adjustable, the lifters aren't that great, etc, etc. Nothing good in that kit other than the cam itself (if that's the cam you need - I didn't look at the specs), but I would highly recommend buying in the individual parts and personally I'm not that fond of Comp after dealing with a number of their parts. I don't think the quality is all that wonderful and those kits..... what a waste of time.

GD

Well, guess i have to go into a bit more detail I should have included. I mentioned I am out of injector so the intake has to come off for larger injectors. Was going to slap 24's in, put it back together, and call it done and move onto the other things I want to do, wheel restoration, stereo, torque converter. Then, a few weeks ago the radiator sprung a leak in the core and it has to be replaced too. So in the not to distant future I will have the radiator, intake, fuel rails and associated components removed. There wouldn't be a better time to go ahead and pull the valve covers and all the accessories. It would be nice to to clean up all the accessory brackets and give them a nice new coat of black paint. I am already half way there. So, I figure if I want to do a cam, now is the time. Since I am changing the runners, having a cam that matches their sweet spot will maximize the gains at any boost level. Also, I would like a bit more of an aggressive sound at idle.

The other reason to not just up the boost is
There is no intercooler on this kit. I looked into adding one, but the turns it requires causes pressure drop, plus going through a charge cooler and associated pressure drop, I would probably just go with a meth kit. The EBL allows you to be able to control one and would probably allow me to get more out of this blower than piping in an intercooler. If I choose to go that far.

I would think it would as long as the tune was right.

I am sure it would. Actually even without the cam I was figuring I wouldn't be seeing the same boost levels at the same RPMs any longer and would extend the RPM range about 500rpms or so with the runners and port matching. The pulley is easy to change so I was going to "wait and see" where I am and decide on which pulley size to go with. See how much fuel I had left to work with as well.

Proven cam no doubt.
ZZ4 208/221 .474/.510 on 112 LSA
CC 210/220 .500/.510 on 114 LSA

Cams are pretty close, but with the blower I like the additional Lobe seperation and I get a bit more lift on the intake side to allow the blower to shove it in. I think with the low RPM capabilities and the TPI runners, lift is more important. My car has headers, a try Y, no cat, and a pretty open exhaust. 3" borla cross system, but the side with the block off now is open to 2". It is all but open.

Good info, devil is always in the details. Plus what @GeneralDisorder posted, I think it would be better to put a kit together myself. I am on the fence on the timing chain, but figure as long as I have it out might as well replace it. cheap insurance again bigger issues later.