Engine Removal
I doubt it.
If you know how to loosen 1 bolt, you know how to unloosen 20.
Unbolt the tranny, unbolt the TQ converter, unbolt the motor mounts, lay the power stearing pump aside, pull off your plenum, and hook to the driverside front and passenger side rear hooks and lift the engine out.
Just takes time and a wrench.
If you know how to loosen 1 bolt, you know how to unloosen 20.
Unbolt the tranny, unbolt the TQ converter, unbolt the motor mounts, lay the power stearing pump aside, pull off your plenum, and hook to the driverside front and passenger side rear hooks and lift the engine out.
Just takes time and a wrench.
Depends on how familiar you are with TPI
Considering that i've pulled/replaced the d@mn thing 3 times this month I'm fairly familiar with the electronics, more than I want to be at least.
It probably is wise to label.. I personally didn't have to because most all of the sensors have a specific plug in style and a matching plug on the harness, you'd have to literally mod your plugins to cross anything
The only tricky part is the grounds just because they can go anywhere, but with that said a ground is a ground so it doesnt' really matter
I can tell you the starters a beeyatch, and on the bell housing get the top 2 bolts from the engine bay. Start the whole project by pulling the hood, dont wait untill you absolutly HAVE to, just get it out of your way from the begining. You can leave your runners on but the plenum has to come off, pull the radiator and the fan from the begining too, the 4 bolts it takes to get it out of the way is worth not having to buy a new one from an engine bouncing around on its way out.
You can also consider pulling the engine WITH the tranny, although I dont personally preffer and wouldn't suggest this method, I figure if it doesnt NEED to come out, it shouldn't.
Good luck
Considering that i've pulled/replaced the d@mn thing 3 times this month I'm fairly familiar with the electronics, more than I want to be at least.
It probably is wise to label.. I personally didn't have to because most all of the sensors have a specific plug in style and a matching plug on the harness, you'd have to literally mod your plugins to cross anything

The only tricky part is the grounds just because they can go anywhere, but with that said a ground is a ground so it doesnt' really matter

I can tell you the starters a beeyatch, and on the bell housing get the top 2 bolts from the engine bay. Start the whole project by pulling the hood, dont wait untill you absolutly HAVE to, just get it out of your way from the begining. You can leave your runners on but the plenum has to come off, pull the radiator and the fan from the begining too, the 4 bolts it takes to get it out of the way is worth not having to buy a new one from an engine bouncing around on its way out.
You can also consider pulling the engine WITH the tranny, although I dont personally preffer and wouldn't suggest this method, I figure if it doesnt NEED to come out, it shouldn't.
Good luck
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 4
From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
This is not complete, but a good start for you.
I would pull the motor and tranny together as a unit.
0) remove hood.
1) drain coolant and tranny fluid.
2) remove fans and radiator.
3) drop drive shaft and torque arm.
4) place a hydraulic jack under the tail end of tranny (have wheels of jack lined up fore and aft direction).
5) remove tranny rear mount.
6) remove fuel lines on front of engine (do this after fuel pressure has been relieved).
7) remove all connectors to egine sensors and systems (label everything, even take pictures).
8) remove wires to starter motor.
9) remove ground wires on back side of cylinder heads.
10) remove exhaust collectors.
11) if auto, remove cable on driver side of tranny (mark the location of bolt) remove other tranny connections. If manual, remove shifter unit.
12) bolt a chain to the block (I use a bolt hole on the back side of pass side head and front end of dvr head)
13) hook up your cherry picker.
14) pull out both engine mount bolts.
15) lift engine out of engine bay.
As you lift out engine/tranny, move cherry picker back away from car as you go lifting some more.
You should have the car up in the air about a foot and remove the front tires. This will aid in getting under the car. You will be sliding in and out from under the car many times.
It's probably a good idea to remove the distributor before trying to remove engine.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
Doc
I would pull the motor and tranny together as a unit.
0) remove hood.
1) drain coolant and tranny fluid.
2) remove fans and radiator.
3) drop drive shaft and torque arm.
4) place a hydraulic jack under the tail end of tranny (have wheels of jack lined up fore and aft direction).
5) remove tranny rear mount.
6) remove fuel lines on front of engine (do this after fuel pressure has been relieved).
7) remove all connectors to egine sensors and systems (label everything, even take pictures).
8) remove wires to starter motor.
9) remove ground wires on back side of cylinder heads.
10) remove exhaust collectors.
11) if auto, remove cable on driver side of tranny (mark the location of bolt) remove other tranny connections. If manual, remove shifter unit.
12) bolt a chain to the block (I use a bolt hole on the back side of pass side head and front end of dvr head)
13) hook up your cherry picker.
14) pull out both engine mount bolts.
15) lift engine out of engine bay.
As you lift out engine/tranny, move cherry picker back away from car as you go lifting some more.
You should have the car up in the air about a foot and remove the front tires. This will aid in getting under the car. You will be sliding in and out from under the car many times.
It's probably a good idea to remove the distributor before trying to remove engine.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
Doc
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It is for my '89 IROC-Z L98
