Hydraulic Vs. Z bar
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 270
Likes: 3
From: Downingtown, PA
Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Hydraulic Vs. Z bar
Ok what is a better setup? I have an 84 T/A with hydraulic. My friend had an 83. He was always talking about how a Z bar is better, but i never liked it b/c it was so hard to push. Although little did we know this was b/c his cluth fork was broken and was not ridding right on the pivot ball. Anways he wreked that car and bought an 84. He hated the hydraulic. So we swaped in the z-bar setup. I was driving his car the other day and i really like how it feels. There is no play in the peddle it drops right down, and overall feels much better than my hydraulic. I also like the fact that he can adjust the push rod so the cluth can be anywhere he wants it. I have toyed with the idea of putting the Z-bar in. The problem is finding a donar car sine they were only in the 83's i don't know if the assembly is the same from the 82's with the 4 speed. what would you guys do.
Thanks Matt
Thanks Matt
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I'll tell what I already did... I got rid of the linkage style stuff in my 83, and put in hydraulics. No more binding and friction, no more lost motion from the car body bending, etc. Now, the clutch is exactly the same every time I push it, and it's always up high like it's supposed to be, and I never have to fool with it.
IMHO you'd be making a mistake.
IMHO you'd be making a mistake.
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Hanover, MA
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305-150/254 combo
Transmission: TH350 or T200
Axle/Gears: Srange 12 bolt; 5.14 or 5.38
When I swapped in my 400 with the 4 spd, I also switched over from the original hydraulic set up to the earlier mechanical linkage. I have always preferred the mech to hyd set ups. The only thing I did find was as I began to play with heavier pressure plates the factory welds on the bellcrank were pretty darn weak. Nothing that a really good stick weld couldn't cure though. Nicest part of the mech set up is you can play with release points in relation to pedal travel, you normally see racers adjusting this between rounds to either add or subtract from their reaction times.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
From: Huber Heights (DAYTON), Ohio U.S.
Car: 83 T/A WS-6
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5 Manual Clutch
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Positraction
My 83 mechanical clutch works great. My brother had an 88 iroc with the hydraulic and he could never get it bled right or something. I guess I like the feel of pushing that heavy pedal down. I think the clutch reacts quicker with the mechanical but I do think there is more wear than with a hydraulic.
Hey RB and Mod, I've got an '83 T/A also, with mech. linkage, but my release point is almost at the bottom of its travel (read: almost at the floor) Sometimes if the clutch pedal isn't actually TOUCHING the floor, the car is still pulling like the clutch isn't fully disengaged.
How did you adjust the pedal release point? I did the 'adjustment' like in the manual (using the adjustment hole (V6 hole) for the lower bar, then switching back to the V8 hole for normal operation... but the action is still the same, releasing WAY to low. I would like to get the release with about 2-3" of clutch travel like my old 'stang had.
Can you guys help?? Let me know how to change this?
Thanks!
How did you adjust the pedal release point? I did the 'adjustment' like in the manual (using the adjustment hole (V6 hole) for the lower bar, then switching back to the V8 hole for normal operation... but the action is still the same, releasing WAY to low. I would like to get the release with about 2-3" of clutch travel like my old 'stang had.
Can you guys help?? Let me know how to change this?
Thanks!
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Hanover, MA
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305-150/254 combo
Transmission: TH350 or T200
Axle/Gears: Srange 12 bolt; 5.14 or 5.38
Adjustment is done by either making the lower rod longer or shorter depending on what you need. Sounds like you need to lengthen the rod some. Very easy to do, just loosen the jam nut and turn the rod then after you get it where you want it just tighten the nut, while you're there inspect the fork pocket where the rod pushes for wear.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
darwinprice
Organized Drag Racing and Autocross
17
Oct 11, 2015 11:51 PM





