I have a twin disc McLeod clutch and flywheel,
T-56 transmission, Lakewood scatter shield, Mr.
Gastet adjustable pivot ball, stock clutch arm,
and the stock 1988 IROC T-5 master/slave cylinder.

I have to push fully to the floor to engage
1st or reverse with a clunk. Hydaulic system is
bled properly. I have tried adjusting ball height
and it seems to make no difference.

Does it sound like I need to replace hydraulics
or need different hydraulics? Or some other
cure?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Aren't the T-5 and T-56 clutch cylinders different? I thought you had to use the 4th gen one when you swapped to a t-56.

What do you think guys...


Mark

 

With you car on jackstands, get under there and have someone else work the clutch pedal (engine off). You will be able to see how much the slave cylinder actuator rod is moving. It might not be releasing the clutch pressure plate fully, even with the rod fully extended. This would be due most likely to the pivot ball. Did you ever have the stock pivot ball in there? Make sure the one you put in is dimensionally the same length.

I had a problem when I converted to the 5 speed. I ended up making a longer actuator rod. Could have also put in a long throwout bearing but didn't want to disassemble it all again. You may need to do something similar.

 

Quote:

Aren't the T-5 and T-56 clutch cylinders different? I thought you had to use the 4th gen one when you swapped to a t-56..

I think the 3rd & 4th gen hydraulics are different, but I would think that the T-56 would work fine with a properly working thirdgen clutch setup.

Quote:

This would be due most likely to the pivot ball. Did you ever have the stock pivot ball in there? Make sure the one you put in is dimensionally the same length.

I agree with Tom about trying the stock pivot ball. When I ordered the Mr. Gasket adjustable one from JEGs, it couldn't be adjusted to make it as long as the stock one.

Hope some of this helps. Let us know what fixes it if possible.

 

Thanks guys,
Actually the stock pivot ball won't work with the Lakewood scatter shield, different threads. There is still some adjustment left on the Mr Gasket ball so I will go the the max there and hope for the best.

If that dosen't work I may have to look at the longer actuator rod idea. The last thing I want to do is pull the trans and change the throwout bearing.

As far as the different slave cylinders for a T56, my understanding is that the 4th gen T56 would require a differnent slave cylinder set up, but I have the universal T56 which should not.

I will post any progress.

Jim

 

Check out the tech threads on the Street Twin hydraulics at CamaroZ28.com as I remember reading a lot of info about McLeod selling a modified master or slave that will actuate the Street Twin properly. The problem you describe is a common one with that clutch IIRC.......

 

Advice to anyone out there going to a Weber twin disk. Check
the tolerances on the floater to flywheel clearance. Mine came from the manufacturer shimed incorrectly. I had to make my
own shims but now it works just fine. This is with OEM hydraulics
and OEM throwout bearing.

To much play and no disengagement, too little play and no disengagement.

 

You really do need to get the McLeod master cylinder to get enough travel. I don't know where you got the twin disc but the McLeod now comes with a new master.

 

It would be nice to get disengagement a little earlier in the
pedal stroke.

When I talked to the folks at McLeod a couple weeks ago they
said something about possibly needing a new master cylinder
but the guy I talked to wasn't sure that what they had would
fit a 3rd gen. I believe he said what he had was designed for
a fourth gen.

My question is, will it fit a 3rd gen?