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My Moser 9 and a Jegs Torque Arm a match made in XXXX

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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 08:17 AM
  #1  
GofasterFirebird's Avatar
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
My Moser 9 and a Jegs Torque Arm a match made in XXXX

FYI, with a moser bolt in 9 inch rear end and a Jegster Torque arm a fitment issue exists. The Moser 9 moves the torque arm towards the driver side and thus the arm hits the trans tunnel. I have yet to fix this situation? I am assuming I can just dent the tunnel a bit but this defeats the "bolt in" aspect. Anyone else have this issue?
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 01:13 PM
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Dragroc's Avatar
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Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: D1SC Procharged 350
Transmission: D&D Performance built T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt 3.90
I have a bolt in Moser 9 in., and a Spohn torque arm. The torque arm has two different sets of bolt holes, one being for stock, and the others for a 12 bolt or a 9 in. This prevents the arm from hitting the floorpans. I have a picture to show you, you have to look closely or magnify to see the other bolt holes though.
Attached Thumbnails My Moser 9 and a Jegs Torque Arm a match made in XXXX-rearend-fl.jpg  
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 01:33 PM
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GofasterFirebird's Avatar
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
How fast is your car? Why the heck doesn't Moser make the mount in the stock location!!! i hope they didn't decide to change anything else. This should be a semi-bolt in rear.
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 01:45 PM
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Dragroc's Avatar
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Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: D1SC Procharged 350
Transmission: D&D Performance built T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12-bolt 3.90
My car is somewhere around a mid to low 13 second car. I haven't run it at the track in about a year, with alot of mods done since. Last time out was a 13.7 at 103. Not very fast, but I am getting there...
The reason the torque arm mount isn't in the same location is because of the center section...it is way bigger than the 10 bolt or the 9 bolt. If the mounting pad on your torque arm is wide like mine, I would just drill the extra holes in it to move it away from the floorpan...if not, I would send it back if possible and get a Spohn.
I said the same thing you are saying when I put my rearend in...Why isn't this a bolt in?...Right now, I don't think anything is "bolt in". Bolt in to manufacturers means bolting on with minimal modifications. I had to send my backing plates for the brakes to a machine shop to get them bored out to a certain depth, and then drill the holes in them for the axle tubes. Then on top of that the vent hole for the rearend is right where oil slings up and out of the hole...I ended up having to cap this off after trying many different things to keep it from leaking. I even called them and they told me to cap it off. Good luck...
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 10:14 PM
  #5  
Mark 89Formula's Avatar
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From: Madison, AL, USA
I have the same problem with a Dana 44 and Spohn torque arm. The pumpkin of the 44 is larger than the original 9 bolt, moving the torque arm towards the drivers side. My solution is to 1) drill a new set of holes in the bracket the attaches the torque arm to the differential per conversations with Spohn and 2) grind and radius the edge of the bracket that interferes with the tunnel to buy just a little more clearance. Haven't finished the work yet but it looks promising. FWIW it looks like the stock torque arm would eliminate the problem but I'm not desperate enough to try that yet.
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 12:39 AM
  #6  
ontogenesis's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,641
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
Transmission: 700R4
can i get pics of your dana 44 setup? is it an aftermarket housing or stock? bolt in or mods out the wazoo? is it a real noticable difference? worth it? thanks
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