rear swap
rear swap
what is the easiest rear swap for my 83. my current rear seems to be doing ok but i would like to get disk brakes and something strong enough for my current 400 to 425 hp engine. the engine will slowly increase in power as time goes on but i dont want to keep upgrading. thanks.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,269
Likes: 170
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
You could find a late 80's 9 bolt with disk brakes and do a direct swap. It's stronger than a 10 bolt but parts are more expensive.
Using a ford 9" or chev 12 bolt means buying an aftermarket diff so that it can be a direct bolt-in. A complete diff is around $2000.
Using a ford 9" or chev 12 bolt means buying an aftermarket diff so that it can be a direct bolt-in. A complete diff is around $2000.
Originally posted by camaro_1983_383
how did it work out with the torque arm. and the coil springs. did the LCA's bolt up?
how did it work out with the torque arm. and the coil springs. did the LCA's bolt up?
its: camaro_1983_383@yahoo.com
Thanks alot. Also, to everyone with a 9-bolt, i am unfamiliar with them but i was looking through summit, jegs and year one and i cant find different gears for them...???
Thanks alot. Also, to everyone with a 9-bolt, i am unfamiliar with them but i was looking through summit, jegs and year one and i cant find different gears for them...???
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN USA
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 427 BBC
Transmission: T400
Go to www.amazingmechanical.com for another solution to the stock little diffies. Stronger housing, gears, posi, axles, yoke and cheaper than a 9" or 12 bolt and on go your brakes, no probs EEE
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 8
From: Santa Monica, CA
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: F1R Procharged 383
Transmission: Tremec 600
Axle/Gears: moser 12 bolt, 4.11's 33 spline axl
if you use a factory disc brake setup such as a 9-bolt rear, beware that due to the e-brake levers and what not, a 15 inch wheel will NOT fit on your car....so if you plan to do alot of drag racing and what some good sidewalls on your slicks, use an aftermarket setup that will clear or stick with the drums
Supreme Member

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 2
From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by Ian Thomson
Go to www.amazingmechanical.com for another solution to the stock little diffies. Stronger housing, gears, posi, axles, yoke and cheaper than a 9" or 12 bolt and on go your brakes, no probs EEE
Go to www.amazingmechanical.com for another solution to the stock little diffies. Stronger housing, gears, posi, axles, yoke and cheaper than a 9" or 12 bolt and on go your brakes, no probs EEE
SUPER rear for F-body
Diffs come complete with tubular torque arms. The long style complete is $1850, the short-arm style is $2100 (and includes the cross-member needed to install it). All of our diffs are shipped as complete as possible for ease of installation, and accept all factory hardware
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 8
From: Santa Monica, CA
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: F1R Procharged 383
Transmission: Tremec 600
Axle/Gears: moser 12 bolt, 4.11's 33 spline axl
hey ian, is that 1850 canadian? cause if it is my check is in the mail lol, thats only 1200 american....
im just kidding, but for real,
how much would it cost for no torque arm provisions? and can you order it with any ratio, axle, and diff (i.e. posi, locker) combo you want?
im just kidding, but for real,
how much would it cost for no torque arm provisions? and can you order it with any ratio, axle, and diff (i.e. posi, locker) combo you want?
SUPER Rear
You need to tell me what it is you are trying to do if you don't want the torque arm. I have put together the best 'bang for buck' combo that I could--not the cheapest, just the best. So exactly what do you want to change? You don't want the big axles, the posi, what? The only thing that I will change is ratio, unless you are looking for a spool,etc. The standard ratio I offer is 3.73 because that is what works best, typically, with a built engine and an over drive. Stocker engines and blower-engines can use a 3.42 pretty comfortably, but not many combos need more gear (remember your tire height). More than 3.73's and you're starting to blow off even a slick! Anyway, tell me what you are trying to accomplish and I'll work it out for you...we do aim to please! EEE
USD Price
USD Price
Last edited by Ian Thomson; Nov 18, 2002 at 01:18 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 8
From: Santa Monica, CA
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: F1R Procharged 383
Transmission: Tremec 600
Axle/Gears: moser 12 bolt, 4.11's 33 spline axl
if you read my signature below you will find that my car does not have a torque arm, the pinion angle is positively determinded by the south side machine lift bars (unreal traction)
The lift bars have their own cross member, and are welded to the rear axle housing, therefore eliminating the need for the torque arm. i have a pic of this below
the cam in motor is so radical that it REQUIRES 4.10s or deeper to operate within the powerband during shift at the race track.....it makes best power between 4400 and 7000rpm, the cam has .640 lift intake and exhaust and has more than 300 deg of duration.
the car has 3.73's in it now and it drops the motor out of the power band when its shifted (tremec tko 5-speed) the 10 bolt rear has richmond 3.73's, an ultimate 7.5 girdle cover, a power trax locker, and a strange c-clip eliminator kit. the car hooked up great on slicks for several passes until the axle snapped in two. the rest of the rear is fine, but if i put bigger axles in it, then the gears will break etc etc
The lift bars have their own cross member, and are welded to the rear axle housing, therefore eliminating the need for the torque arm. i have a pic of this below
the cam in motor is so radical that it REQUIRES 4.10s or deeper to operate within the powerband during shift at the race track.....it makes best power between 4400 and 7000rpm, the cam has .640 lift intake and exhaust and has more than 300 deg of duration.
the car has 3.73's in it now and it drops the motor out of the power band when its shifted (tremec tko 5-speed) the 10 bolt rear has richmond 3.73's, an ultimate 7.5 girdle cover, a power trax locker, and a strange c-clip eliminator kit. the car hooked up great on slicks for several passes until the axle snapped in two. the rest of the rear is fine, but if i put bigger axles in it, then the gears will break etc etc
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