I posted this in the electrical forum too because I just don't know which it i exactly, seems to have both problems tied in, the error codes point to electrical, the symptoms point to mechanical problems! I figured I'd post in two forums and maximize fellow members knowledge.

Anyways, here's the story

ok I was about of a 1/3 of the way to Mizzou from St. Louis driving back cause classes start the next week and when I brake to slow down a bit I try to accelerate back up again and it doesn't shift gears smoothy, instead it clunks into third then goes for what seems to be neutral for a while, then gets knocked back into second and refusing to shift out, all this occuring with a serivce engine soon light. I pull off the highway, shut it down and start it back up again and the damned thing refuses to shift past second gear! I pulled a 22, 36, and 44 error code, the 22 I've had since I owned the car because I've always had a somewhat erratic idle every now and then, didn't think too much of it cause when I drove it, it ran fine and caused no problems. the 36 was a MAF error, kinda odd, but when I took it out to replace it I found it had been gutted (by the previous owner, didn't tell me this at all), but it never caused any trouble until now. I suspect that 44 is caused by the formers, all the codes are registering as hard codes, not intermitent. Anyways I replaced the MAF (which set me back $150) and I am still experiencing the same damned problem! I know they say you have to clear the error codes, but unfortunately I didn't pick up how to do this, it could be responsible for the new MAF not responding. Also a fuse could be the problem, but I found out that when I got home (30 minutes away from where my car currently resides). I plan on checking that tomorrow, but if that's not the problem, what is? How do I clear the error codes, and could this be a problem with my torque converter or shift linkage? I really hope it's not a tranny problem cause that would be a major bitch as far as time and expenses go.

I heard it could also be the transmission valve body about to go kaput, does anyone know how much this work will cost?

 

I guess no one has had a similar problem or can diagnose this one...

 

Personally I would suspect a bad torque converter. But then I am really beginning to hate the design of auto-trannies....and therefore do not trust the torque converter...I would guess its lost a few fins now and isn't bad enough to create anything that someone would call a slip, but still cause problems. I'm no expert though, lol, I have just been looking into how auto-trannies are hydrolic (sp) and as you learn in physics, anytime you convert from one energy type to another expect severe losses (usually on the order of 20%-50% efficient) In this case its rotational mechanical to hydrolic pressure. You lose in direct gearing as well, but maybe a percentage point or so in each gear, not the massive losses from converting energy types.

 

To reset the error codes disconnect the battery or ECM fuse for up to five minutes. Codes are stored for the last fifty engine runnings, or so I've been told by the Car Gods here on the boards.

 

Your error codes will have nothing to do w/ operation of the tranny. The only thing electrical is the torque converter clutch solenoid, but that won't cause what you are experiencing.
Does the engine seem to run well in the gears that you do have? A drivability problem can often seem like a transmission problem.

If it is running well, even under load, then perhaps it is a transmission problem. The fact that it "clunked" into third, then went "nuetral" means that the 3-4 clutches might be toast. When they burn up, you will get excessive clearance which may explain the clunk when they tried to apply, then after a while of heat buildup due to slip, they just completly let go which made you feel like you were in Neutral. Does the fluid smell burnt? Pull the pan and see what the bottom looks like.