I did a t5 swap about 8 months ago. I have an 86 iroc w/ 305 tpi.
The trans/pedals/flywheel/bell were also supposed to be out of an 86. I don't think it was b/c the flywheel had the the bolt patern for a 2 peice rear main seal. The problem is it doesn't shift right unless I have my foot burried in the floor. I have 14.5mm of push at the fork so I'm assuming its something internal. The flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/pilot bushing throwout bearing clutch fork/ and slave cylender are all new all for an 86 iroc. Did the bell housing change at all before 86. I got a new clutch fork pivot pin also for and 86 but it didn't fit in my bellhousing. The new one screws in from the inside and the old one screwed in from the outside of the bell housing. The new one was much higher than the the one that was in the bellhousing already (its more than just wear). I'm wondering if this possibly older bellhousing and pin are not correct for the 86 clutch. Sorry so long I'm just tired of screwing around with this thing.

 

The bellhousing is an 84-92 unit if it's canted 18 degrees and has a built-in ear for the slave.

An adjustable ballstud might help your situation but regardless it should operate correctly without resorting to one.

I question if the flywheel having been surfaced would have changed the dept of things enough to cause your problem. Sometimes a shim is used between the crank and flywheel to take up the depth which is taken out by surfacing the wheel.

The 85-down flywheel is functionally the same as the 86-up wheel, though someone may have been using the 84-up bellhousing on a 2pc rear seal (85-down) engine, which would be the reason for the olde wheel, new bell.

Matthew

 

My flywheel is brand new from gm. I know someone who works for gm but it was still expensive.

 

well on the 5.0 engine you need at least .57 inches of travel on the clutch fork and it sounds like you are ok there.

I would re-bleed the Hydraulic clutch system anyway.

That other fella is right about sometimes using shims to compensate.

Have you had a motor oil leak for a while?...this could contribute to oil finding its way in to the bell housing and ultimately landing on the throwout bearing....which would gum up and sometimes create shifting trouble...but chattering occasionally on shifts rather than having to dump the clutch.

Could also be that your fingers are worn down on your pressure plate...which means new PP.

Depending on the performace level of the clutch plate you installed, and how hard you drive (if you get on it like i do) or your general shifting habits you could have already burned your clutch out. Its not too uncommon for rough clutchers to lose theirs within 12 mos. A granny with the right clutching can have hers last for 10 yrs. Unfortunately it sounds like you need to spend a lil time with your clutch assembly once you have verified that its not your hydraulic system.

Check your throwout bearing and flywheel and PP for glazing from high temps (too much slip on the clutch for too long), check for glazing on the disc as well...stick your finger in the pilot bearing and feel for shrapinel/metal shavings...this 4 dollar part causes $400 clutch jobs.

-blain

 

Well, I was wrong. The Lakewood adjustable ballstud is the wrong thread for an 84-92 bellhousing.

 

This may come off a little ignorant (unintended) but... aren't you supposed to put the clutch to the floor anyway?

 

Check the pics in this post, see if anything looks familiar.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=183667