The car is a 1991 T/A that I converted to T-5 last year. I got all used parts from a 1992 Firebird, got a new hydraulic assembly from a local dealer, a new nodular flywheel, and a Centerforce DF clutch.

Everything worked great until the pivot stud backed out, at which point the slave cylinder exploded when I stepped on the clutch. Since I wasn't thrilled with the idea of spending over $100 w/shipping for a new assy, I decided to just get the slave cylinder from Autozone and find out firsthand if bleeding the system is as hard as most people say.

Well, it wasn't. why? I don't know, but I'll go ever every detail of what and how I did everything. Once I looked over the system and figured out how I was going to proceed, it took less than an hour, and only a few ounces of fluid.

A detail that is very important IMO is that I was certain everything else was nearly new and/or worked properly--clutch was new, throwout bearing installed properly, pilot bushing new, transmission in good working order, etc.--so no other problems masquerading as a non-releasing clutch.

First, I 'primed' the slave with some dot 3 by just pouring some into the hole. I don't know if this is necessary, I just felt it wouldn't hurt. Next, I bolted it to the bell housing, plugged in the line & tapped in the roll pin. I pulled the cap off the reservior and filled it, then opened the bleeder screw. Then--nothing. Went and got the mityvac and tried sucking the fluid through it--still nothing. The problem? Those of you that know this will laugh, but it wasn't so obvious to me--the black bellows thing needs to come out--from its shape it looked like it was supposed to stay in when you pour in fluid. Anyway, the minute I pulled this out and poured in fluid, bubbles started rising, and fluid came out the bleeder.

Not being the patient type, I utilized advice seen here previously. After closing the bleeder, pump the slave by collapsing the plunger all the way. then, pump the master with the pedal. I went back and forth with this until my brother didn't see any more bubbles rising in the reservior (maybe 3 times back and forth between the master & slave cyl. pumping routine).

On the test drive, it worked perfectly--so well that I am able to push in the clutch, and 5 seconds later go right into reverse w/o going into a forward gear--& no grinding. Release is smooth and linear.

One more thing--slave is an aluminum bodied unit made by a company called Brakeparts, got it through Autozone, where it is a regularly stocked item.

Hope this helps.

 

heres a even easier way:


get a speed bleeder screw:
summit carries them under the Earls name, or you can get the orignal at www.speedbleeder.com


replace your bleeder screw with this one, crack it open, and just keep pumping the pedal(and watching the fluid level). when you're done, close it and its bled perfectly.

it also allows you to do quick fluid changes.

 

Those bleeder screws are neat, I've been planning to upgrade all my brake's bleeders with them but haven't got around to it. My experience was so simple and quick, however, I don't think its needed here--and I think that the Brakeware piece from Autozone is the only one with an actual bleeder. I did not unscrew the plug in the stock slave so I don't know if a bleeder will work in there; but I'd guess it won't.

What I'm curious about is if those who have done this know to remove the black bellows and then pour. If you just remove the cap and pour on top of it the fluid will go nowhere. This is also what I wanted to most stress you need to do.

Also, when pumping the master & slave cyls, only fill to the line (about halfway) on the reservoir and leave uncapped. Uncapped so bubbles come out, only halfway so it doesn't spill over (like mine did twice before my brain started working).

Forgot to mention that I don't like the idea of gravity bleeding (in addition to my impatience) since you have to leave it open for a while and brake fluid is hydroscopic.