I started tearing down my 9 bolt to get it cleaned up and ready to go in my Formula. I pulled both axles to strip the caliper brackets and backing plates with little trouble. The passenger/long axle went in with no trouble. The drivers/short axle feels like it's hitting something and comes about 1/2" from going in completely. I've checked the splines and they are in good shape and I've looked in the axle tube and can see only the splined end of the posi. Can anyone tell me what I'm missing? The splines engage and turn with the pinion but the axle just won't go in all the way. Someone help so I don't have to take it to a shop to have it torn down completely.

 

I have read several times that when you jack the rear of the car and remove one axle you must not turn the other axle other wise the axle will not go back in.
If you have done this there is a way to refit the axles but I'm not sure what it is. But it may require removing the diff. Hope someone else can help here.

Simon

 

Well,the rear isn't in the car yet but it was turned. Anyone out there know how to fix this?

 

it should go in w/o any trouble. Ive been messing around with mine alot and havnt had much trouble getting the axle back in. I ahd to drive teh drivers side axle int he last 1/2 in or so on mine witha soft faced mallot to get the bearings to go into the axle tube. The axle on that side wont jsut slide in because the bearing housing is different on each side and it takes a little effort to get it to seat.

 

When I did my axle bearing a few weeks ago I know I turned the axle to get at the retaining bolts. I did this while the opposite axle wasn't in the housing. I had no trouble replacing the axles at all. They actually slipped right in without needing any help.

The only thing I could think of is that there might be some dirt in the splines.

 

where/who did you get your 9-bolt bearings from? I know diffsolutions has them but im a cash only (refuse to own a credit card) operation and i was hoping i could get them from a local shop or autoparts chain.

 

I got my bearings at autozone for only $9. If I remember correctly the timken part number is 'set 9'. But it costs more to have them pressed on, about $25 to $35 depending on what your machine shop charges.

I bought the axle seals there too, $4 for the passenger side I think, and $10 for the driver. Yes there is a difference, one has a larger metal ring around the outboard side. The more expensive one had to be ordered.

 

How much effort to get it to seat? I don't want to damage anything. I tried a few taps with a mallet but got no improvement. I've tried everything I can think of short of pulling the carrier but I don't see what that will accomplish.

 

Mine went in VERY easy, it was much easier than I thought it would be. Maybe there is dirt where the bearing race would go? I'm not really sure how to help with this one, good luck and let us know what happens.

 

We've had or rear ends apart more time than I care to count, so take this for what it's worth since this is your car. Even thought the splines "look" okay, they may have a slight burr in them or may have a slight twist that would be very hard to see in either case it will make re-installing seem impossible, but it's not. We've had 2 rear's in particular that we could not get the drivers side axle in, 1 was a 10 bolt rear from a 3rd gen and the other a Ford 9", both were coaxed into place with the help of a mallet. While these burrs may seem like a non issue, they can cause you much grief if you've never palyed with this stuff before becasue you don't want to screw anything up, don't worry-just beat it. Sometimes it seems like your wearing yourself out or doing more harm than good, don't worry-beat it harder. I personally have'nt come across an "idiot proof" spline arrangement that an axle could only slide in a "certain spot", but I'm not saying it is'nt out there either, I've just never seen it personally.

 

if your posi unit is loose, the cone might have turned and is now misaligned with the housing. There are 2 sets of splines that have to be aligned for the axel to go in place. Get it started, lock the other axel in place then turn the problem one with a big screwdriver until it seats. I would try this before you go with the big hammer idea.

 

Thanks laiky. I'll give it a shot this weekend. I really wanted to avoid beating it with a hammer if at all possible. No telling what you might tear up inside.