My fork is only traveling about 1/2". I have bled and bled the hydraulic system. New master cylinder, new slave cylinder. Bled both by gm's gravity bleed way and the 2 person brake style way. How far does everyone else's fork travel for their clutch to disengage?

thanks,
Clint Melson

 

Is the pedal hard (mechanical interference) or soft (like an air bubble in the line).

I would think the travel should more like 1.5" to 2".

Did you put in a new clutch and throw-out bearing?

Is the TO bearing on the clutch fork correctly? Backwards or cocked somehow?

I know on my car, there is no inspection covers, so you can't see what is going on in there. Just have to be sure it was assembled correctly.

The more relevant background you can offer the better-

S-D

 

sorry

The problem started off just like it is now. A friend ran the system out of fluid. I had to get the car towed home to bleed it and the guy who towed it did not take it out of gear when he went to put it on the trailer. He shattered the clutch so i had to replace it. Everything is new and the TOB is installed correctly.


As for the pedal, it feels like it always has, not too soft, not overly hard. It has no play and it pushes on the fork all the way from the top of the pedal to the bottom, it's just not moving it that far.

I hope this helps a little to describe my problem better. I wonder if the new pp they gave me is screwy...

thanks

 

That sounds weird- like there is something wrong with the hydraulic system instead of the mechanical end. Everything I've heard is that it is very difficult to bleed these systems. It sounds like you've been at it a while, though.

Hmmm. Was your pivot ball seated on the TO arm and was the pivot stud mounted tightly to the trans housing? Sometimes that can cause trouble if that stud works its way out or comes out of adjustment.

I know it is tough, but can you move the TO arm manually to ensure it is engaging and disengaging the clutch? Then you can focus on the hydraulic system. I can't remember if it is possible to get the TO arm boot off so maybe you can look in there to see what is going on.

Also- what made the original system run out of fluid?

You may also want to try the search feature on this site? There is a ton of info. Remember to use AND and NOT to include or not include specific terms.

S-D
Also- welcome to the boards.

 

I'm not sure what made it run out of fluid as I let a friend borrow the car for about a month, but i have no fluid leaking from it now.

This is about the 5th time I have posted in about 6 months due to the same problem. I've searched and just about everbody else had a problem with the TOB installed improperly. I can't even budge the TO arm with my hands or a pry bar. The pivot ball is fully seated on the TO arm and is screwed all the way into the bellhousing. I have tried adjusting the pivot ball in about every position possible.

 

The spec for the amount of travel of the slave cylinder is .58", just over ½" so that sounds alright. The springs on the pressure plate are too stiff to disengage the clutch manually without a lot of leverage on the fork - it needs that force to hold everything together under power. The pressure plate will only move maybe 1/16" with the pedal depressed.
For those who haven't been following, how are you verifying that the clutch is not disengaging? If the rear wheels are off the ground, they will still rotate when the pedal is pushed in...
The clutch shouldn't have shattered while being pulled onto a trailer; either the tires would slip, or if left in a higher gear, the engine would rotate with the DS.

Pete

 

with the rear wheels off of the ground they spin once it is in gear with the clutch in. With the wheels on the ground, I can't get it into gear at all.

I don't know what caused it to shatter if not by the towing. considering it had the same problem it has now and after it got towed home, a day later it was constantly rattling and would go into gear, but would not go anywhere, dropped the tranny to reveal a shattered clutch. If the clutch was the initial problem, it should be fine now, considering the TOB is new, PP is new, disc is new, flywheel is new, new pilot bearing installed, and had the tranny checked while it was down. But I am having the original problem it had when I first got to it. I'm running out of money and ideas lol.

thanks,
Clint Melson

 

Pete - Do you know what the total stroke is of the TO arm. I thought it moved quite a bit- like about 1.5 inches or so. I'm talking about how far the TO bearing slides on the back and forth on the shaft during normal operation.
Any info appreciated-

 

I don't know offhand how much it travels, but it wouldn't be hard to figure out if a person had the measurements of the fork. Take the distance from the fork tips (where it contacts the TO bearing) to the center of the pivot and divide that by the distance from the pivot to where the slave cylinder pushrod contacts the fork then multiply that by the pushrod travel.
Example: Say 3" from pivot to throwout bearing; 6" from pivot to pushrod; and .58" pushrod travel. You get 3" ÷ 6" X .58" = .29" of throwout bearing travel. (The 3 and 6 are just estimates) You could then use that .29" and do the same calculations to find out how far the pressure plate moves. The pressure plate only needs to give a paper-thin gap to allow dis-engagement of the clutch - the same way that disc brake pads are just skimming the rotor.

Pete

 

Pete-
Oh. I thought it was the other way round: doubling the cylinder travel instead of halving it.
Its been a while since I looked at one. Thanks.

91RS-
What disc/pressureplate/flywheel and TO bearing are you using? Did the clutch assembly come as a package? Just trying to think of any other things that may have gone wrong here.

S-D

 

from where the throwout bearing rids on the fork to the piviot (4 5/32") from the piviot to the slave rod (5 11/32") I used the center to center of all spots mesured. mine worked perfect so these should be good mesurments as I used the shinny spots on the throw out bearing end to make sure I had the right spots to mesure at.

 

Bad fork, perhaps? (bent, etc)