Recommendations for proper clutch "breeak-in" period
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From: Ithaca, NY - 10 sq mi surrounded by reality - I'm SOL!
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI in stock trim
Transmission: T-5 w/ Hurst B/P shifter
Recommendations for proper clutch "breeak-in" period
Recently put a new Luk RepSet clutch kit in my IROC - what are some good break-in rules to help make sure it works well down the road?
K
K
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From: Bowling Green KY
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci
Transmission: T-5
Go easy on it for the first 500 miles. Don't do any WOT runs until then. You have to give the clutch disk time to seat properly and establish a wear pattern on the resurfaced flywheel.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,245
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From: Park City, UT
Car: '92 Corvette, '89 1/2-a-'Vette
Engine: LT1, L400
Transmission: ZF6, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.31
You can go WOT all you want, once the clutch is fully engaged. It's slipping/engaging the clutch that needs to be done gently.
Basically, when you get a new clutch, (this is just like new brakes BTW), the disk isn't perfectly flat. There are high spots and low spots. If yo go out and do a hard launch, all the friction, power, and heat are concentrated on the few, small high spots. This causes the clutch to glaze and harded in just those spots, thus preventing proper break-in from occuring. You want to be gentle on the clutch (avoid heat) until it has worn enough that the disk, presure plate, and flywheel have all mated thoroughly.
Basically, when you get a new clutch, (this is just like new brakes BTW), the disk isn't perfectly flat. There are high spots and low spots. If yo go out and do a hard launch, all the friction, power, and heat are concentrated on the few, small high spots. This causes the clutch to glaze and harded in just those spots, thus preventing proper break-in from occuring. You want to be gentle on the clutch (avoid heat) until it has worn enough that the disk, presure plate, and flywheel have all mated thoroughly.
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