I have been trying to find out more info on the 4L60E-3 kit made by Trans-Go. I already know that it converts the tranny to full manual shifts, but I seem to get conflicting information on the rest of the kit. Seems alot of the sites I have been to (as well as some retail sites) say that this kit will convert the trans for non-electronic applications and you have to buy an additional kit for vacuum control. But then other sites (as well as some rtail sites) claim that this is not the case. EVERY site has one thing in common- no one there who answers me has any experience with the kit at all, they are just going by what they read.

I have looked on Trans-Go's website, and the info is sketchy at best- you could maybe read it either way. I tried calling them, but I never get through. Anyone know the real deal on this kit, or where I can find some detailed info about it (meaning more than a 2 sentance description).

 

The kit converts to full manual without using a vacuum setup if the car still has its computer, and is using it. In the case of a retrofit, you have to have the vacuum modualtor, and a vacuum switch setup for the lockup torque converter.

 

So if I buy the kit, I'll get the manual shifts (which I want). And if I buy the MOD-whatever (I don't remember the part number, but I have it wrote down), and set up all the vacuum stuff, I can get rid of the computer control. It pretty much just became a 700R4, am I assuming this right? What do you do where the electric plug is at?

The reason I am asking is because I have been trying (with no success) to get this 94 350 TBI/4L60E combo going with the 6395 ECM and a modified harness from the donor. I don't know where I went wrong, but I'm tired of screwing with it.

I figured if I bought the TBI harness from Painless and bought a 7747 ECM, it'd be done and I could get it started. My harness wouldn't be a butchered mess then. Of course with that setup, I loose control of the electronic tranny, which is already painted, detailed and installed in the car. Plus it was rebuilt not long ago. If I could use that kit to convert it to non-electric, then it looks like all my problems would be solved, without taking anything back out of the car. What do you think?

 

If you remove the computer portion going to the transmission altogether, then you will have to setup a vacuum switch for the torque converter lockup. The vacuum modulator is included in the full manual Shift kit. If & when you need this kit, let me know, as there are modifications that I make to the kit that need to be done to vastly improve transmission life. What torque converter are you planning on using?

 

Right now, the stock converter is still in there. I had figured I'd have to be changing that soon, especially if I end up putting any performance stuff on there. I have had such terrible luck with getting the tbi going, I am even thinking about getting an 87-up 4bbl intake and carbing it. Of course I'll have to change the distributor then, but oh well.

This engine/tranny is sitting in a 68 Nova. I just thought maybe I could get it going with the TBI setup, since I had it on hand. At this point, I don't care if it is carbed or injected as long as it RUNS. My main concern was the tranny- I don't want to loose the overdrive gear, plus I paid more than I wanted to for a crossmember to mount it! If at all possible, I'd like to keep that tranny in there.

As for the converter, I have no idea how to go about choosing the right one. We know what car we are working with, but I have not decided on a rear gear ratio yet (I have a 9 inch to go in later). I also don't know how the engine will end up being configured. I won't be racing the car (other than the occasional stop light variety). I guess it will be a weekend play toy. Not so much power to make it hard to drive (with PS and PB), but not wimpy either. There's a couple ricers I need to deal with around here. I figured for the time being, I'd leave the stock converter in there until I figure out what I'm doing with everything else.

What kind of mods do you do to the kit? Do you sell the kit (do you have a website)? You have my curiosity peaked!

 

More on converters... I found this posted at another site...

"The OEM converter, depending on what year/engine you have, can be anywhere from 1400 to 1800 rpm. BLAH! GM made a 2025 rpm stall converter that was used in the 4.3 Vortec S-10, as well as some of the C4 Corvettes. I have one, and I think it's great. It stalls around 2100 rpm behind my 350. It's nice not having the engine bog down at those part throttle 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Talk about throttle response! If you decide on getting this, be sure to have a trans cooler to go along with it. The "DBLF" converter is GM part number 24202310. You can get remanufactured unit for around ~$130. Not too shabby."

They also mentioned using a Corvette servo. Would this be a converter to think about? I can get one rather cheap locally.