I have an 87 firebird that originally had a 4 barrel carb and a speed shop replaced it with Edelbrock.

They made the changes of switching to a HEI distributor, therefore elimanting the computer. I don't think they hooked up anything to get the torque convertor to lock though at the time 2 years ago I didn't know any of this stuff.

The speed shop that did this was horrible they hooked up plug wires wrong, vaccum hose wrong and when I went to pick the car up the owner said I took it for a test drive and it drove fine but I don't really drive cars that much.

How do I know if the Torque convertor is locking and how should I fix it if it isn't

 

Roll down the road at 50, 60 mph or so and press the brake peddle just a tad. If the RPM jumps up 600 RPM or so the lockup is working.

 

Car is stored for the winter and there is 6" of snow on the ground.

 

You can't test it without a road. When you do get the chance, go for a drive (a cruise, don't wide open throttle) and leave the shifter in D not OD. Pay attention to the shifts. It should go 1/2, 2/3, 3 to lockup. You'll see the rpm's drop just slightly at about 40mph after you have hit 3rd. Test it further by staying on the throttle and then upshifting to OD, the rpm's should drop drastically now (4th gear).

So... 1/2, 2/3, 3 to lockup (small drop in rpms), upshift into 4th (big drop in rpms). Let us know.

 

If I don't have lockup can it damage performance or the car.

Thanks for the advice this spring I will be trying to figure things out.

 

Performance won't be lost because the torque converter won't stay locked at WOT. However, it is generating more heat because it may not be locking at part throttle cruising. Also, your gas mileage will suffer a little.

 

The amount of rpm change may not be that drastic. Drive it and note the rpm crusing at 60mph. Then unplug the 4 prong connector from the tranny. Drive it again and note the rpm crusing at 60--it should be higher.