Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Hughes Rebuild Kit

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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:17 AM
  #1  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Hughes Rebuild Kit

Has anyone here used the Hughes rebuild kit for the 700R4? The one advertised in Summit is the one I'm considering. It's pricey, but seems to come with all the best components (Koleen steels, Red Alto frictions).

The trans already has a B&M shift kit, TCI deep pan (cast), B&M 4th gear sleeve, and a B&M Holeshot 2,000 converter.

I'll be stepping up the converter to a Holeshot 2,400 and installing the Jet servos when I rebuilt the trans. I'll also be adding B&Ms 24,000 GVW cooler.

The trans will go into my '87 K5 Blazer with a built 350 in front of it. The rear is built, with 4.88s and a Detroit, plus full floating axels. I want the trans to be indestructabale.
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 06:31 PM
  #2  
Pro Built Automatics's Avatar
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
The reason I went with the Borg Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches & 2-4 band, instead of the Alto Reds, is that in the 700R4/4L60E they hold up to more horsepower & heat than the Alto Reds. This is not true in other units, the TH400 likes does well with both, the TH350 works well with Alto Reds, Powerglide likes just about anything, etc. Until the BW Hi-E's came along (1996) for the 700R4, I did not get good lasting results with a strong running motor. They give a better "shift" quality/feel than the Alto Reds in these units. Since I made this change, I have had only a handfull of 3-4 clutch problems in the last 8 years in any of the 700R4/4L60E units.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 11:34 AM
  #3  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Pro-Built, is there a list of the stuff you offer in your kit somewhere? Do you have a website or something? I think I'll just buy a kit from you instead, and save that Summit gift certificate for a torque converter.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 04:45 PM
  #4  
Pro Built Automatics's Avatar
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
Go to http://www.pro-built.net for my website & go to http://www.pro-built.net/index.cfm?f...ct&productid=5 for the rebuild kit. I would add the GM HD sunshell to this. If you have any questions, let me know?
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 11:38 PM
  #5  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Wow, that looks like a very thorough kit. No other kit I've ever seen includes the pump guts.

My original plan was to rebuild the trans with the Hughes kit, Jet 1-2 & 4th gear servos, my existing B&M shift kit, and a B&M Holeshot 2400 converter with lockup. Basically this is the stuff that looked the best to me in the Summit catalog. I have never rebuilt an automatic trans, so this will be my first go at it. I've read the Haynes book, and seen people rebuild them before, so I think I can handle the work. Plus I know a guy that works at GER who can give me a hand if I get stuck.

Obviously I have nowhere near the background and experience that you do with automatics. Maybe what I was looking at originally isn't the best way to go. I'm not as concerned about cost as I am about getting lots and lots of trouble free miles out of the trans. That being said what would you recommend as far as converter manufacturer, additional internal upgrades, ect?

The vehicle is my '87 K5 (fullsize) 4X4 Chevy Blazer. It's got a 350 with Edelbrock Perfromer RPM heads, an Air Gap intake, Edelbrock 750 carb, a Crane roller cam (.488/.509 valve lift, 276/284 advertised duration). The rear is a built 10.5" 10-bolt with 4.88s, a Detroit Locker, & Warn full floating axels. I am building the truck to run 35-36" tires. The front rear has matching 4.88s, and I'm sticking with the NP208 t-case until is breaks. The truck sees a lot of off-road and a lot of on-road. I drive the hell out of it, and the motor runs like a raped ape.

Thanks for all your help.
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