I've never worked on a tranny before how hard is it to replace these gears? how much do gears go for

 

That looks like the reverse drive gear on the countershaft, correct? That countershaft is all one piece.
That gear doesn't look bad to me
If you need a new shaft, they'll run $150 or so. Check at a tranny shop for prices.

Pete

 

That's reverse. What you're seeing doesn't really matter. Leave it alone. Not worth spending money on.

When you put the car in reverse, put it in a forward gear first, to stop all the parts inside there from spinning. Don't just jam it into gear and make it grind. That's what did that to that gear; driver error, perhaps yours, or some prior owner's.

Make sure you get all the metal chips out of the trans that got shed into it by driver abuse. The quarter car wash will clean an empty trans case beautifully.

 

what about this gear?

 

is this normal I see rounded teeth but are they supposed to be this way? how do you check syncro's?
thanks for info

 

That's one of the other parts of the reverse set. It's the one that moves when you shift into that gear.

Same deal... don't worry about it. Just don't crash reverse any more.

Blocking rings (the things most people call "synchros") hardly ever go bad, unless the clutch has been failing to disengage for a very long time and the driver has been forcing it into gear anyway. You can look at the inside surfaces of them; the brass type has what looks like splines on them, look at them with a low-power microscope or strong magnifying glass, and make sure they still look sort of triangular in shape. If the "points" of the triangular grooves are worn more than about halfway down to the base, then they're worn out.

Why exactly are you doing this? That would give a good clue as to what you should be looking for/at.

 

I also agree, nothing wrong with that slider. That is caused by forcing into reverse and getting that grinding noise. To eliminate that make sure you shift into 5th before reverse and you will not get the grinding and the slider will not get any worse. (opps didn't see RB83L69 first response )

What is the problem that you were having that you think you need to replace something?

 

the tranny was wining then the car hesitated and started to smell. now the trans makes a squealing noise in high gears. I figured a bearing went, but as I said the gears looked worn to me so I thought I would check before ordering parts.

 

Sounds like the throwout bearing, not the trans.

 

turns out its the input shaft bearing.if you wiggle the shaft theres about 1/4 inch of movement.

 

They'll always wiggle with the trans out of the car. There's nothing holding them still. They require the pilot bearing or bushing in the crank to keep them lined up. There's probably nothing wrong with that part of it.

 

Might be time to consult a proffessional shop.

 

Yep, RB's right. My old trans had a ton of "wiggle" in it. I'd say 1/4 inch.....both your bellhousing alignment pins and your pilot bearing take up that slop when it's installed.

 

Since it appears that you already have the transmission some what apart here is what I would look for:


For a visual inspection to see if damage occured, it there was too much play, take off input bearing retainer, twist input shaft till "notch in input shaft clears cluster gear and carefully pull out.

What I would look for:

is there galling on end of man shaft nose

when the loose bearings are removed from inside cone of input shaft, how does the inside surface that those bearings run on, is is smooth and ungalled.

is there any visible damage to the individual bearings.

Also, the caged bearing on the input shaft how do the bearings look? Also the race that is probably still in input bearing retainer.

If all looks good, reassemble but hold off on siliconing input bearing retainer untill..., check endplay of main shaft with a dial indicator. There should be none, if there is then you need to get shim that is the thickness of the original shim (the one under the race in the input bearing retainer) plus the amount of endplay that was measured on the dial indicator. Once the correct shims are in then silicone under the bearing retainer and tighten up.

If this seems too complicated get a manual/video or take it to a professional.

If all of those look good, then I would think that it is definately the throw out bearing.

Ps. on my newly rebuilt t-5 I have about 1/64" play in the imput shaft.