Master and slave retrofit
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Car: traded away 94 v6
Engine: vacant
Transmission: also vacant
Master and slave retrofit
In my 4th gen I used to have the POS T5, now I'm soon to be installing my Super T10 and I'd like to keep the existing master and slave setup. I know I'll need a bracket to mount it all, but plainly, will it work on a linkage type setup? The hydraulic stuff is quite new and I can't afford to buy and fit a 2nd gen linkage. Suggestions?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Can't see why not... the dimensions of everything on the front of the transmission are the same.
Since you obviously have a 6-cyl car, the biggest problem you'll have to overcome, is if whatever V8 BH you end up using rotates the trans like a 3rd gen one does (your 6-cyl one won't bolt to a V8 block). A T-10 doesn't have the funky trans mount boss for that. If you have to mount the trans straight up, you'll probably need to fabricate a bracket for the slave that would bolt under a couple of BH bolts and/or trans bolts.
The next issues will be a shifter; and of course, a torque arm mount. I can't help you with details as I know absolutely nothing whatsoever about 6-cyl cars, except that they exist.
Since you obviously have a 6-cyl car, the biggest problem you'll have to overcome, is if whatever V8 BH you end up using rotates the trans like a 3rd gen one does (your 6-cyl one won't bolt to a V8 block). A T-10 doesn't have the funky trans mount boss for that. If you have to mount the trans straight up, you'll probably need to fabricate a bracket for the slave that would bolt under a couple of BH bolts and/or trans bolts.
The next issues will be a shifter; and of course, a torque arm mount. I can't help you with details as I know absolutely nothing whatsoever about 6-cyl cars, except that they exist.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 53
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Car: traded away 94 v6
Engine: vacant
Transmission: also vacant
I'm using a '74 Vette aluminum bell and the 3.4L was pulled in favor of my 355. Tq arm was removed alltogether, replaced with a 4 bar/link.
I don't even know if the slave is a push or pull type, but I never thought about using a bolt hole for a boss mounting point. How much stress would a slave have to endure (ie: pushing/pulling forces)? I'm using a Zoom HD replacement 11" clutch, and the shifter I can make if need be.
Now, if it worked, would it last for any length of time?
I don't even know if the slave is a push or pull type, but I never thought about using a bolt hole for a boss mounting point. How much stress would a slave have to endure (ie: pushing/pulling forces)? I'm using a Zoom HD replacement 11" clutch, and the shifter I can make if need be.
Now, if it worked, would it last for any length of time?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Well I don't know how much force it will have to endure, exactly; but the factory bolts it in with 2 bolts with 10mm heads, so they're what, 8mm bolts max? and it pushes on a piece of sheet metal (the fork), so it can't be all that much.
I'd try building a bracket to duplicate the placement of the slave cyl, with the bracket bolting under the bottom 2 BH bolts. A slightly reinforced L bracket ought to do the trick, maybe some ¼" thick steel about 3" wide bent into the L shape and a couple of gussets in the corners. Maybe an additional piece to go back to one of the trans bolts, to triangulate its support.
If it's the factory T-5 hydraulics, I believe those push, just like a linkage type would. So it ought to work. All you'd really have to do is to make sure the fork got moved far enough to release the clutch; the slave moves about 5/8", so you'd just have to make sure that 5/8" on the end of your fork was enough to actuate the clutch properly. I don't know offhand how much motion that takes, or what the factory fork ratio is, or anything like that, so you'll have to measure it I guess.
Again, I can't see why you couldn't fairly easily make something that would last hundreds of thousands of miles. It shouldn't be too hard to do.
I'd try building a bracket to duplicate the placement of the slave cyl, with the bracket bolting under the bottom 2 BH bolts. A slightly reinforced L bracket ought to do the trick, maybe some ¼" thick steel about 3" wide bent into the L shape and a couple of gussets in the corners. Maybe an additional piece to go back to one of the trans bolts, to triangulate its support.
If it's the factory T-5 hydraulics, I believe those push, just like a linkage type would. So it ought to work. All you'd really have to do is to make sure the fork got moved far enough to release the clutch; the slave moves about 5/8", so you'd just have to make sure that 5/8" on the end of your fork was enough to actuate the clutch properly. I don't know offhand how much motion that takes, or what the factory fork ratio is, or anything like that, so you'll have to measure it I guess.
Again, I can't see why you couldn't fairly easily make something that would last hundreds of thousands of miles. It shouldn't be too hard to do.
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