I just had a SPEC stage 1 clutch setup installed in my car and I have a few questions.

The graph is a representation of how my clutch pedal feels. Don’t let it fool you because even though there is pressure (pedal resistance), it is very light.

About 1-1/2” to 2” before the firewall, the pedal feels like it just gives up just before the firewall. The clutch engagement is also within that 2” zone and it’s very abrupt.
There are no problems with gear selection, hot or cold.

The flywheel was supposedly resurfaced and now there is, what seems to be, a rotational vibration which the mechanic is crediting to the poly tranny mount and there is also a little chatter but it is soft.

My questions are...
1. What would cause the clutch pedal to have such a mushy feel?
2. What would cause such a “small window” of clutch engagement?
3. Could the clutch assembly be out of balance?

Thanks.

Scott

 

Is that pedal pressure with your foot or your hand? Use your hand its much more sensative to pressure changes. You should have 1-2 inchs of free travel and then pretty even pressure after that.

The small window of clutch disengagement(the clutch is engaged when the pedal is up and the trans and engine are "connected") could be from a misadjusted clutch pedal.

As far as the vibration is concerned it could be caused by machining the flywheel but im not aware of any method of balancing an internally balanced flywheel.

 

I tried it with my hand and it still has the same effect. The last the last 2" of pedal travel just seem to give up. I've never experienced this before.

I thought hydraulic clutches were self adjusting. I don't thonk the pedal was touched but how would I adjust it anywayl?

How many times can a stock flywheel be machined?
Also, does it matter how the pressure plate is put on?

Thanks for the reply.

Scott

P.S. To kick me in the ***** even more, my brand new starter just took a crap on me.

 

I think with hydraulic clutches, if the flywheel is machined, you can get shims that go between the crank and flywheel, according to how much the flywheel had taken off it. That way the throwout bearing is in the same place in relationship to the pressure plate as before. This may not have anything to do with your problem though.

 

You are correct, there are shims for maintaining the correct distance.
As for as vibration, I have noticed on doing clutch R&Rs, there is a paint mark on the flywheel (stock factory) that corresponds to a paint mark on the pressure plate. Even though these parts are supposed to be zero balanced they are not perfect. The problem is when the flywheel is resurfaced, the mark is removed. When doing a clutch job, I mark the fly wheel on the outside by the ring gear to keep the reference point. You can try rotating the pressure plate mounting points to see if you can smooth out the vibrations. This is done with the tranny out and the rear of the engine supported. I have done this and it has worked in several cases.
Also several companies, (Ram and Mcleod come to mind) that offer adjustable hydraulics. They are expensive though. Hope this info helps.

PS Did you install a new pilot bearing?

 

While some clutchs are completly self adjusting, some are only self compinsating. In other words they wont go out of adjustment due to clutch wear over time.

As far as machining the flywheel goes, there is not a maximum number of times one can be machined but there is a minimum thickness that must be observed when machining.