clutch slipping?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: '88 Red Trans Am w/ T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
clutch slipping?
when i accelerate really hard the rpms go way up and the engine whines but the car slowly gains speed. If i hold the accellerator down for long enough or let off it a little there is like an engaging feeling. no noises or anything just feels like the tires are grabbing but i know they weren't sliding. It did this last year once too. coincidently i replaced m starter cause the car was starting hard and this slippage went away. does this sound like a clutch going bad? any suggestions for good new clutches? i wanna put more horses in this girl but the clutch can't seem to handle it now.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yes it sounds like your clutch is used up.
Replace it ASAP, before you destroy your flywheel by creating deep hot spots that won't turn out, and you'll be posting here about how you just put in a new clutch but it chatters like a witch and {insert brand her} clutches are a piece of crap, which will be wrong because the real problem is the flywheel damage. You also run the risk of reaching the point where the clutch won't transfer enough power to even move the car, which comes on rather suddenly and can be a real PITA. Instant mandatory tow bill on the spot.
I've been using Centerforce Dual Friction clutches lately, I'd say for the past 10 years or so, in this car; but I've used Ram, Hays, McLeod, B-W, and some others over the years too, and gotten excellent results out of every one of them, IF INSTALLED PROPERLY; i.e. new pilot bearing, resurface or replace flywheel, install throwout bearing to the fork correctly, etc. Basically, any name-brand good quality clutch should be fine for a low-power application like you have, but stay away from AutoZone specials and remans and garbage like that.
Replace it ASAP, before you destroy your flywheel by creating deep hot spots that won't turn out, and you'll be posting here about how you just put in a new clutch but it chatters like a witch and {insert brand her} clutches are a piece of crap, which will be wrong because the real problem is the flywheel damage. You also run the risk of reaching the point where the clutch won't transfer enough power to even move the car, which comes on rather suddenly and can be a real PITA. Instant mandatory tow bill on the spot.
I've been using Centerforce Dual Friction clutches lately, I'd say for the past 10 years or so, in this car; but I've used Ram, Hays, McLeod, B-W, and some others over the years too, and gotten excellent results out of every one of them, IF INSTALLED PROPERLY; i.e. new pilot bearing, resurface or replace flywheel, install throwout bearing to the fork correctly, etc. Basically, any name-brand good quality clutch should be fine for a low-power application like you have, but stay away from AutoZone specials and remans and garbage like that.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: '88 Red Trans Am w/ T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
well the thing that gets me is that this problem happened to me before last fall and it went away. now it is back. how could the clutch slip on me and then not slip anymore?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: '88 Red Trans Am w/ T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
oh one other thing. If or when i do replace the clutch, I do plan on putting more power to this car in the future. I would like to get her in the 400 range or more realisticly in the high 300's. Is there a clutch you would recommend over any others? I here things about single, double and triple plate clutches whats that all mean? and how much money am i looking at if i do replace clutch, pilot bearing, flywheel, etc.?
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore MD area
Car: 82 El Camino
Engine: built 355
Transmission: T-56 upgraded internal
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42
if its slipping REPLACE IT NOW. mine was slipping a little thought it was ok to drive to sandiego and make it back, well it made it there broke down, since i couldnt get it that day, it cost 300 in towing and storage fees, not including the gas and trailer which was another 250 just to bring the damn thing back, on top of that another 30 to get it to the hobby shop on base. so i wasted roughly 580 just because i thought it wasnt a problem, if you have money to waste please keep driving it, otherwise take a day and replace the damn thing, itll be alot better in the long run
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: '88 Red Trans Am w/ T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
yes i understand it needs to be done but like i said in the last post, how much is it gonna cost in parts and what are some good suggestions for parts?
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore MD area
Car: 82 El Camino
Engine: built 355
Transmission: T-56 upgraded internal
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42
right now im going with just a napa life time warranty p.o.s . only cus im gonna be swapping in a t56 or auto soon as i put my new engine in here in a month or 2, or soon as i kill the t5. but if its gonna be ur daily driver with out many or no power upgrades get something that is reliable and trust worthy, like a centerforce or something like that.
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