Torque Arm and Tranny mount instal
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Red Deer AB Canada
Car: 86 z28
Engine: 305 carbed with 3" Y pipe back
Transmission: 700r4 that is breaking down
Torque Arm and Tranny mount instal
now i just picked up some energy susp tranny mount and torque arm mounts now can i instal these myself i havae access to a hoist and the general tools is this possible for me to do in 3 hours?/
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Should be able to. The tranny mount is easy. The t/a mount is a bit more difficult. I found its best to let the rear of the tranny down so you can get to the mount easier.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
They're easiest if you take the corssmember all the way out, to give yourself room to work.
The ES torque arm mount is just a replacement for the rubber part. You have to re-use you old metal pieces, and drill / grind / cut the rivets that holds the old stuff in place. So you'll need to be prepared for that. Also, the torque arm could be either of 2 designs that are exactly the same except different, with regards to which way they're bent up; so you need to make sure you have the right ES piece on hand for your particular one. Also, you'll find that getting the ES mount to go together the first time, is a bit of a chore, because it's meant to be a fairly tight fit (unlike the factory one you're taking out).
With the right tools, it should take about an hour.
The ES torque arm mount is just a replacement for the rubber part. You have to re-use you old metal pieces, and drill / grind / cut the rivets that holds the old stuff in place. So you'll need to be prepared for that. Also, the torque arm could be either of 2 designs that are exactly the same except different, with regards to which way they're bent up; so you need to make sure you have the right ES piece on hand for your particular one. Also, you'll find that getting the ES mount to go together the first time, is a bit of a chore, because it's meant to be a fairly tight fit (unlike the factory one you're taking out).
With the right tools, it should take about an hour.
And also, dont forget to put a block of wood between the torque arm and the chassis when you remove everything. If not, it might hurt you (as you remove the nuts/bolts) or damage the underside of your chassis. I almost forgot about thit step, but I felt tension while undoing the nuts/bolts so I decided to read through the Chiltons before going further (thank goodness). Justins advice is very good (thats what I did to get the torque arm off), but be sure to have someone keep an eye on your distributer as the movement of the engine/tranny while dipping the rear down will move the distributor closer to the firewall and its possible for contact and maybe damage.
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